PERU    DIARY  4

laundry is dry at six - kind of - and I head off. I find a bun with French fries and scrambled eggs, at a roadside stall, and the kind couple offers me a cup of the traditional hot and real thick quinoa drink, this one with lots of fruits too. And I have to pay 0,20 Euro for this real filling meal.
I actually got plenty of time today, and I do get drawn out of the car. In 4200 meters height, on some immense huge grass-cowered hills, some huge but low clusters of cacti are found. They are completely covered in long and dense white hairs, but does not flower at present. From a distance, they look like snow. Here are a few flowering herbs, but mainly grass.
I pass a single bigger town, covering most of a valley. It does not draw me out of the car. Like yesterday, the road leads from 2000 to 4300 meters, and the landscape changes accidentally. The top even have some fog. One stretch is dominated by the surface, which no longer is present, or covered under a thick layer of rocks or mud.
At nine, I make a pit-stop in the little and cosy village of Ahyayro. I keep it simple, and stick to a fried egg and a fresh cheese buns. The next village is named Callebamba
The road leads down to 2000 meters and quite some cacti. I do a good walk in the cacti and acacia thrones and see some interesting plants and nice nature in general.
Then the road soon gain height, and I reach a huge highland between 4000 and 4200 meters. This is almost only grassland, with vicuñas and a few cows. Here are several small lakes, but I fail to spot any flamingos.
I kind on give up on any interesting plants, and then I spot a single, awesome one. It look like an arboreal Bromeliad, and it turns out to be the biggest species in the genera; Puya raimondi. At least, I do stop at the first, which strangely enough is the last as well. The stem is over half a meter in diameter, and the entire plant around five meters height. Great experience, but so strange, I only see one, considering I see around 300 square kilometres of this habitat. Then the landscape drops to 3000 meters, and the road follow a huge gorge down to the huge but old colonial city of Ayacucho.
Most look like trash, the area I should sleep in as well. At least, they haven’t finished the hotel, and I find a great one, 400 meters from the central square. Twice as expensive, but really luxurious with all from rope and slippers, to drinking water.
At one, I start exploring the colonial centre, including the many cafes. The first is Plantlovers, and here sure are plants.
I get partly around the central square, but looses myself in the side streets and then one marked after the other. An odd mix of dead meat, shoos, souvenirs, herbs, hardware, leather, prepared food, pom-poms and anything else.
Most buildings are real old and kind of run down, but in the charming way. People are eager to chat, and I wished, I knew what they were saying. Not a single refuses me a photo, but I am the only tourist, sticking out for sure. Everyone else could live here.
Another cake-experience, kind of layer-cake meet cheesecake and with strawberries; great.
The few souvenirs I find here, have nothing to do with those, I have seen in the previous cities - and thinking about it; they were different too. I fail to find a single metal figure here! I got a clear feeling of, this could be a city that lasted several days. On the other hand; more will come. Actually, the target for tomorrow is yet another old colonial town.
I make a short stop at the car to pick-up my knitted sweater at dusk, then head out to find some non-pizza. Don't get that far: Pasta, but all right. It start to drizzle, when I head home, and it rains, when I reach my floor.  Highlights from the day

17. I is only a relative short drive; 200 kilometres, but by almost only small roads. It take a bit to clear the town, as most streets I try, end up being blocked by a pile of dirt.
When I get to the country side, it is a completely new environment. It is clay or gravel, and surely geological unstable, but fertile. Less than half the sealing are left, and the rain during the night did not help. At least, here are hardly any traffic, and I get to enjoy the nature. And see samples on the mountains on the road.    
Then I reach the highlands, and the road get narrow; one lane, but better sealed: PE-26B. And the views are still fantastic. I make it above 4500 meters, and here are as usually grass, small white cacti and loads of vicuñas. The few lakes are mirrors, but no flamingos. On a lower level, at least six cacti species can be caught in one frame.
Here are a real few settlements, one is Julcamarca, which I do a short walk in. It is market day, but here are not many people. They might have some festival later, but I head on. It feels like a closed party anyway. So far, it is only demonstration of farm machines and alike. The next little settlement is Secclla, and even less is happening here. Outside are a few scatted huts, and their dogs only real reluctantly leave the road they are sleeping on.
The next area is bedrock with a real thing layer of turf on. Here are a few cacti; the "4000 meter", ferns, heather and some, almost Alpine herbs. Well, it is at 3850 meters height, but here are crops on tiny patches as well. I meet the clouds at 4000 meters. I cross over a pass at 4500 meters height, and the clouds are denser on the other side.
Here start to be a lot of ponds. I find quite some plants, which I would classify as Alpine. A bit further down, herds of alpacas grass the lush but short grass. The 4000-meter cactus is way more green here - and it might be another (sub-)species.
despite this is appearing as wasteland in the heights, there are clear markings of numerous small, square fields everywhere. As the landscape flattens a bit, and now are dominated by grass, more and more humble huts are found way out in the field. Rock-walls forms "bomas" everywhere, and at least once in the past, this was a rich alpaca area.
Eventually, the road get down to the Eucalyptus trees, and that change the appearance. And the mountain sides are almost vertical and rather barren along the road. Here, the humble farms have black cows, but the alpacas are still numerous. Rivers have removed the road in several stretches, but a gravel road and improvised bridges connect the land.
The road leads through one bigger, new and un-charming city; Lircay, but I just struggle to get through as well, despite it is noon. An error, as I get too little to drink.
From here, it is a nice, two lane road, and I actually enjoy that by now. Only a few rivers have destroyed it, but it passes 4300 meters.
I reach Huancavelica around two, after some real long 200 kilometres drive in eight hours. I find my hotel, but the young guy living there, does not rent out anything. I get to borrow a much needed toilet, and head into the centre. At the central square, I find Hotel Victoria.
It seems like something is going down in this town today. The sidewalks and squares are packed with locals from the surrounding mountains, and bands play everywhere. An endless parade is passing through the main street, with fireworks, horses, dressed-up locals, banners, caramel-throwing and much more.
Due to de-hydration, I just want food and water. I get a huge serving of fried rice and loads of freshly made juice. A pit-stop at the hotel, then out to find some pills an water.
The city is one big parade, with 1000 of people, singing, playing, dancing and sinning. I make a few photos and videos, then head home to sleep for six hours. A real pity, as I missed the opportunity to experience the locals, due to stupidity.
When I feel fine at eleven, I can hear the party at the square, but stay home. Well, I do get confirmed: it does rain, is cold and my camera does not work in the dark with a moving target.   Highlights from the day
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