From Diary 1.
11.
 Another long drive;
300 kilometres, six hours, and this one between 3500 and 4000 meters. It is
generally through some real lush environment, and some areas are almost
totally farmed. However, the first part is mainly covered in succulent and
other cacti, along with Bromeliads. I ought to botanise a lot, but
the vertical sides doesn’t really lures me in. It is simply too hard and
dangerous.
I’m
not sure, if it is the same gorge I drive through
 all day, but it is
absolutely fantastic! The far-side have snow, the close one mostly covered
in different plants. Here are only a few small villages, and two large
cities. And they take forever to cross in zigzag, as there are no ring-roads
or direct way through.
I
reach the huge city of Cusco at two, but have a real hard time
finding a spot for the car. A hotel 800 meters from the centre was
apparently not
 enough. And then the hotel is tricky to find as well. I have
the right alley, but fail to get in to the massive block, containing several
hostels. I finally succeed, and get my own key along with a room.
Then into the centre, but also bye the car to pickup my jacket, as it is a
bit nippy by now. I find a vegetarian lasagne and a coffee on the way.
Where
the outer of the city lack charm, the old central part sure have. And it is
all about
 tourism.
The Sun & Moon temples should be the most important after Machu
Picchu, but to me, it is a huge church with a few, real well made old walls
hidden inside, and little else.
I do a lot of loops in the cosy town, one on a little and real nice square
with souvenirs. I find a traditional bull; Torito de Pucará, Peruvian
traditional for protection of the family. And I can’t resist a local Turkish
stone .
A single cup of coffee in a backstreet, and then it darkens. Home to get
frustrated by the slowness of the computer while I make back-up of the
photos. Then out to find a light snack before bedtime. I had not expected
the city to be dead at eight in the evening, but at least, I find some fancy
breakfast. I forget to buy water, and bother my host to boil some for me. It
is a real dry environment, and water is much needed during the nights. And
the heights might play a role as well.
Highlights
from the day
12. It is a day off. Well,
for the car, that it is. I just have to walk around to some of the famous
archaeological sights, and see the old city in general. I get a late start,
but the sights have to opened. Here is actually a hot shower, despite I only
pay a quarter of last night, which didn’t really have water at all in the
morning at all.
I
 am real close to everything, and start with Sacsaywaman, some
immense ruins. It is a real nice walk up to the huge boulders, through
unspoiled nature and an Incan canal.
It is truly a waste area, covering several peaks. Here are many different
constructions, but all walls, it seems. Some are made by head-size
rocks,
others by up to six metres high boulders. Here are only a few groups of
foreigners, and quite some locals as well. I find
 several interesting
plants, but also enjoy the view down the city and surrounding nature.
Besides from the ancient Inca constructions, here are some natural rocks,
looking kind of odd. I think it is from the floating lava, looking like a
river.
When I have seen most, and got way too many photos of huge boulders in
general, I stumble over the bus-drivers food stall, and get a huge dish of
rice and boiled sweet potatoes,
 carrots and some other vegetables: Real
tasty for two Euros. And I have not mentioned it before, but Peru is in
general twice as expensive as Bolivia.
My next site is a kilometre up the mountain.
, are also ruins,
these with carvings, but rather disappointing. Here are some cave-like
rocks, which have been carved out within the natural rocks. And a lot of
ancient limestone, worn down by the rain through millennials.
I find a trail, leading through nature for quite some
 distance. Then it
turns into steep suburban area, and I'm back down to the Cusco. It is a real
steep mountainside, and I just take my time. A cup of coffee at one of the
few places without a giant view, but I have seen my share by now.
It is only noon, and besides from the old town, I have seen what I came for.
I charge myself and the GPS, before I hit the city once again. I find an old
Alpaca statue, which I really like, and will be my Peru souvenir. Here are
so many different minerals samples too, but I restrict to a single Pyrite
crystal. I found some pebbles at the archaeological sites, resembling the
giant boulders, and I am ending up with too much here - but I like these
tiny memories.
Besides from the traditional dressed tourists, here are some photo-models
with lamas as well, and half the native women are traditional dressed.
But tourists are numerous. Most speak Spanish, but here are French, Russian
and Americans. None really my favourite. Here, it might be the two Germans.
I find yet another cup of coffee on my way to the car. I figure, my
favourite sunglasses might be in the boots? But no such luck. They got lost
at 5300 meters height in Bolivia, along with my reading glasses. At least,
the car is still here.
Around
the central squares, and I manages to find some cake and coffee -
rather easy. Here are so many great looking houses, churches and actually;
shops and cafes.
At dusk, I pass by the hotel to get my jacket, but return back to the outer
areas, to find some dinner. A real nice local place offers something
vegetarian, and I’m game. A avocado salad and a pesto-pasta with fried egg
along with a glass of fresh juice, and I pay the same, as the tourists pay
for a cup of coffee, in the central part of town. Back to fight the
reluctant computer and relatively early to bed.
Highlights
from the day
13. I find two buns with avocados for breakfast, and they are
really great.
It is little more than an hour of nice driving to Pisco. I start with
the rather new and not that open market. I must settle for a bunch of
bananas for second breakfast. Then I find my way up to the archaeological site. I
have to wait for ten minutes, for the ticket man, and I then realises, I’m
not really sure what I’m in for. I should have drunken some, and brought
additional water and food.
It is a real steep trail, leading way up over the little town. Here are so
much nice nature, with at least six cacti, Berberisa, Bromeliads,
Oxalis, Peperomias and a long list of ferns and other plants.
I pass several sets of terraces, awesome views to high mountains and the
little town. I see
 the Pisco Botanical Garden from up here, and settle with
that. It is just a block, overgrown with huge trees. And the views to the
higher peaks and the entire valley is fantastic, and every corner reveals
even more.
Then the trail passes some ancient clay walls, each protected by a
grass-roof.
A bit further up, some real well made stonewalls are found. I think, I have
had a good sample off, what the area can offer, and return. Just as I’m out
of the archaeological area, a little restaurant offers a Inca Cola and a cup
of coffee - both real appreciated.
Pisco looked like a little innocent village from above, is real cosy, but
most houses are souvenir shops and a few restaurants. And I really like
their souvenirs: So tastefully, handiwork. But a bit steep, though. The
prices
 are around Euro 11 for the cheap ones, and they are a hard barging.
Probably a good thing, as I have what I need by now.
After
having enjoyed most if the village, I get some local dinner at the
market, and head on, a bit reluctantly.
I do shift around some sights, as I feel that I have seen terraces enough
for now.
It is another relatively short drive to Urubamba but not my reserved
room. I ask a
 lot around in the entire street, but fail to find it.
I find another real nice one, at the main street, with a flower-filled
garden, and the host and his family sorting mace. I just settle in, and head
out by car to The Secret Valley. It is up over the mountains, and
into a huge valley with barley, wheat, quinoa and mace. I fail to find the
salty pans, but drive straight to Moray & Maras.
These ancient terraces are round holes in the ground, at least three. Does
look a bit odd, and how do they drain?
Somehow, I get two local women along, on the way back to Urubamba. I do the
two main-streets, find some cake, but head home early, as tomorrow might be
a bit tough. This is just below 3000 meters, and not that cold.
It have been a fantastic day, and I have so many photos to prove it. I just
need more text to squeeze in just a few more. See the
Highlights
from the day
Time to crack open
Diary 3. |