From Diary 1
 28.
Despite the great surroundings, I hardly get any sleep. However, I also
fail to figure out a solution, for my car predicament. At six, I’m ready for
Bolivia, but as it is Sunday, everyone else are still asleep.
Breakfast is served at eight, and at 9;30, I’m told, I just have to wait
till noon, for my new car, my great hostess have arranged. A bit more
expensive, but a bigger car. And I will have
 to pay for the last 800
kilometres, around Euro 300. Sure beats sitting around here, doing nothing,
and I appreciate; they deliver it on their day off.
I
spend the time watching a huge caterpillar and a sparrow-sized woodpecker in the lamppost,
in the little, but cosy garden with orchids on the palm stems.
A noodle-cub for lunch. And not
to forget; pad their quite dog Vigo. I am SO ready for adventure by now.
They bring the car around at
 one, but we have to go to the office, to make
the payment. And then it doesn’t work. I end up withdrawing all I can on
three cards, and back in the office, pay additional a lot in US$ and by
the credit card. Half pass two, I head out into Bolivia.
One GPS keep spinning around, when I drive. The other one refuses to talk to
me. Bit annoying, as I do depends on it.
The drive should be the scenic road to Samaipata, which follows the large
river Rio Pirai. I actually don’t really have the time to enjoy it, despite
this is the “bonus” day I was given, due to a cancelled and re-booked flight.
And the first 80 kilometres are nothing special. Then I reach the mountains,
and then it a great drive. I see the river, bare rock which look like
limestone. Here are huge bromeliads on the bedrock and epiphytes on the
trees.
The road passes 1350 metres, but remains so lush and green. A single shower
make me skip a marked, and I am running late anyway.
I reach the El Fuerte ruins, just as they have closed, but the last bit was
an interesting drive.
Around
six, at dusk, I pass through Samaipata in 1650 meters height. My
hotel is way out in the jungle, by a narrow and real shitty road, but so nice at
the same time. Unfortunately, they have been taken over by the neighbour, but
not their reservations. I get a mug of tea and a chat with the young French manager,
speaking perfect English. He recommend me Casablanca at the square in
village. Twice as
expensive, but  I’m not going to waste time,
looking for another.
The village is so charming, with clay houses and cobblestone alleys. A mass
is about to start, when I pass the church. “Sin carne” is a bit hard, but
then I get the best pizza ever!
A stroll through the centre reveals local- and tourist shops in a perfect
mix. I treat myself with a latte at the most cosy place, covered in plants. Then back to real
life, where my bank have closed my Visa card.
Highlights
from the day (opens in new window)
29.
A good nights sleep, and I explore the still sleeping town in the first
daylight. It is adorable. I end up at the market, where a few breakfast
stands are opening. A mug of coffee, brewed on milk alone, and an empanada
with cheese, straight from the fryer, set me back one Euro.
Hundreds of Amazon parrots crosses the sky, and rather noisy .
When I, after an hours exploring, return to the hotel, breakfast seems to be
included. Fine with me, always room for fresh fruit, toasts,
fresh juice,
buns with jam, scrambled eggs and coffee.
Then I set both GPSs for Parque Certacico, 170 kilometres away, as the Amazon
parrots fly, 358 kilometres as the Kia drives. I soon clear the town, and
enters a fantastic area. It is through mountains all day, but they are so
different. Some are clay, some gravel, some granite, some red, some grey,
some yellow.
I drive in-between 1000 and 3000 meters height. That does not really change
much in the vegetation. The side of the mountain, on the other hand, is a
major factor. On one side, it is really lush and green. The other side is
more desert-like. However, the huge Cereus cacti are on both sides.
I stop for photos and botanising, time and time again. One stop reveals at
least ten different cacti, from the almost underground Discocacti to the
giant Cereus, some reaching at least ten meters. I se Mammelarias,
Opuntias
and Cleistocacti. Some areas are covered with Bromeliads, other
Acacias.
I hardly pass any villages nor towns, as the road
 twist its way through the
mountains. One little settlement have a market hall, and I get a third
breakfast and some photos.
Some larger rivers still hold some water, and it is used to irrigate the few
and tiny fields. In the countryside, the few huts are mainly made of raw
clay and real humble.
After three and a half hour, but only 100 kilometres, I have to admit: No
more photo and botanical stops.
I have to buy some water  in a little settlement, but fail to find coffee.
Just outside Sucre, I find the closed-off entrance to the dinosaur area. I
am not that keen anyway, as it is only footsteps and plastic-animals in a
theme-park. I just
continue into the large city.
Sucre is by far the most ugly town, I have seen in a long time. No green
stuff, only red brick buildings and concrete. I have to climb several huge
hills, before I reach the impressive old town. I have a room at a hostel in
the dead centre, and have to pay for
 parking. It is under the supermarket,
and I stock water and biscuits to have in the car, while I’m there.
Then I make some loops around the squares of impressive buildings. As
always, the church and banks compete about having the most impressive – or
vulgar buildings. I find a vegetarian burger and sandwich in a little cosy place,
while it gets dark. I walk a bit around, but the jammed traffic make an
intense fume, and I have time tomorrow.
Considering this is at 2800 meters height, it is surprisingly warm. I fell
fine in my T-shirt. I feared the worlds highest town; Potosi, but it might be the lowlands I should
fear? Highlights
from the day
30 . No sleep due to a heatstroke. However, I’m ready to leave at six.
Unfortunately, my car is not, it is still locked in at the parking lot under
the supermarket. I use the time to see the old centre of town,
which is real closed by now. I finally find a stand, less than half a square
meter, who supply me with some dry bread-thing and a glass of warm milk for
breakfast. I
try to find some sun, but the buildings are blocked it by now.
When the car is released, I head further upwards pass 3500 meters. It is a dry and almost barren area,
first pass the huge mines, removing entire mountains. The raw
 clay huts, in
an else so dry area.
I pass 4000 meters and finally make it to Potosi, the world's highest
city. It have some find old buildings and owe its life to the huge mines,
found further up the mountains. I do some loops to get an impression, but
head back to the hotel a bit early.
I
remember parking the car, and walk into the hostel, not paying or getting a room.
The next I remember, is a sterile room with two other people. I don’t get
them at all, and go back to sleep. Highlights
from the day
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Diary 3. |