From the
southern part of Wales, I now start on the
western part.
3/6 It is yet
another perfect morning, and the countryside look fantastic. I do
several stops to enjoy it on my way to Tenby. I actually went
fifteen kilometres backwards last evening, and now I have to do them
a third time, but they are still lovely, and I enjoy them more with
the sun in my back.
Yesterday, I found out here were no camps for fifteen kilometres,
but when I reach "new" road, I actually passes fifteen camps in 45
kilometres!
Tenby should be
a "postcard" town, and it is pretty.
It is a rather large, old town, and the harbour and old city wall
have not changed much. It is a popular place for the locals, using
the perfect beach. An old fortress on a tiny island in front of the
harbour make a great motive, although against the sun. I do several
tours around the old part of town, the cliffs overseeing the harbour
and some back alleys.
For once, I get a glimpse of the lifeboat in the high shed with the
steep ramp, and it is rather big. The lines of old houses, facing
the water look like hotels with
shops
underneath. Here are still dragonblood trees, palms and other
subtropical plants, and it must be rather mild year round.
I find dinner and a souvenir, and get a fast pot of tea and cake: I
have a fear for meter-men by now.
Next on my list is
Carew Castle
and town. The castle is a ruin, and does not look that big. When I
start exploring it, it turns out to be way bigger than expected.
Like so many other castles around here, it is located next to a
river, and build by the "Normans", which were Danes, I believe, in
the 11th century.
Here are many towers, halls,
rooms and pathways, and I have it
pretty much to my self. Bats and owls are nesting in one tower,
which have been closed to visitors. A few rooms have been decorated
sparsely with medieval objects.
The old sandstone window frames are still left in some windows,
other have been recycled in the area along with some stones. I still
enjoy exploring these castles, especially in such good weather.
A bit down
stream is the 300 year old Tidal Mill, based on the nine meter tidal
water in the area. A huge up-stream pond provides water enough for a
half day. I walk down to it, and have a look inside. A gathering
of
the original machinery is remaining, and extensive explanations
provided. Well, except from how it get its water, it is a normal
watermill, although big.
Downstream is a muddy basin with blaster-algae and a few seagulls. I
sit and enjoy a mug of tea in the sun, watching the tidal being slag
- I think it is called, when it don't move. Nothing more relaxing, I
can think of. On the way out, I pass the tall Carew Cross from 1035.
Pretty hard to get a decent photo of. It is either against the light
and with a white plastic tent as background, or way up, behind a
railing. And the sun disappears, while I try.
As
usual, the GPS are aloud to lead out on the minor roads, through
fantastic nature, winding trails and farms. Here keep being quite
some forest, which still are light green and lush. Just before I
reach St Govan's, a National Trust sign show off to Lily Pond. Why
not?
It is a waste area, where the first part is a 150 year old
artificial pond. It is covered in water lilies and surrounded by
forest. Nice area, but I want to see the cliffs at
St. Govan's.
The first I meet is Green Winged Orchids; Orchis morio, which
are a
bit tiny but plentiful. The cliffs are magnificent this clear, sunny
day. I do a long walk, but are looking forward the Green Bridge, a
bit further out
the coast.
A huge military area is blocking my way, and I
walk a long detour without accomplishing much. Then I try the other
way around, and I finally make out to the cliffs again.
The first I meet here, are several colonies of Racerbills, nesting on
the pinnacles named Stack Rocks. They feel quite safe, despite I am
only 30 metres away. Then again, I got 50 metres down to the water,
and 50 metres up to them again, both ways vertical.
To the other side, I can see
Green Bridge, which is a natural arch,
formed in limestone. As I see it, it is actually at least three in a
row, but one is especially large.
It is a great experience; the rocks, the sea, the birds and the
plants. I walk quite some here, and try to see it all.
It is getting rather late, and I still have to see, if I can avoid
going back hometo work, a bit longer. That means internet. The next sight
is Pembroke and its castle, and I start with the town. On the way, I
finally see a 3D fox. I have seen quite some badgers, foxes,
squirrels and rabbits in 2D, and now, I only misses the badger in
3D.
It is
fare from as interesting as I thought, and
it seems like all the cafes and alike closes at four. I finally find
a pub that just opens, and have a bare cup of tea along with a lot
of internet. Then I head over to the Pembroke Castle, which is massive. The
base of the Tudors, and pretty much intact, it seems from outside. I
do the long walk around, but can't find the energy and enthusiasm to
explore the inside by now.
On the way around, I see a sign from Pembroke Racing Pigeon Society.
I actually saw a van the other day, warning about its load being
Racing Pigeons. Guess they are cheaper to bread than horses.
As lately, the wall along the road, advertising for campsites, vanish
in the afternoons. One is only campers,
one seems to have vanished.
Just before I reach my next site, one finally turns up, and it even
have a laundry. At first, the washing sound expensive. While using
it, it turns real expensive, and I give up drying it after one hour
of tumbling. On top of that, I now have a lot of greyish cloths
without elastic. I guess 40C is way hotter here, than at home.
The days photos are divided into
several slideshows, and the photos from the tour in general get a
new slideshow.
Below is Penbroke Castle, which I only saw from the outside: too
big!

4/6 I get
an early start due to the sun, and head for Dale by the coast. It is
a little, old town with what could be the remains of a monastery.
Besides from that, it is fare from as interesting, as I had expected,
and I head on.
The road almost meet the sea, and I go for a stroll in the huge dune
of rolling stones. Despite the early promises, the sun have gone,
and a light mist covers the coast.
Another little harbour look more interesting, and despite they don't
like strangers accordingly to their signs, I try. The sea runs into
a narrow sound, and here are still a bit of water under the boats.
The slate rocks are covered in ferns, mosses and succulents. As the
sea have started redrawing, algae are exposed further down the
cliffs.

What
look like a peninsular on the map, is more like a hand with fingers.
Sounds are cutting in, and the sights are quite further apart than
it appeared. The next is St. Davids, which have a cathedral. The
parking lot is a bit outside town, in some real nice natural
surroundings. A small river, and ancient bridge, huge oaks and
plenty of mosses and ferns make up a nice combination. A small path
leads directly to the cathedral, pass a ruin. Cows are relaxing on
the meadow in front of it, and I try to capture it all in one frame.
Where
the roads leads into the river, a triangular sign say "Ford". Ford
is known for making some bad cars, but a road sign?! The cathedral
look fine from the outside, and that is enough for today.
The trail into town is marked with knitting. Benches, lampposts and
alike are dressed in colourful knitting. It is yet another old town
which have found out how to make a bit on tourists. Which by the
way, seems to be made up by 99% Brits or more, everywhere I've been.
I do a small stroll up and down town, but fails to find any
interesting. Well, a pot of tea and internet, that is all.
As
the road continues towards Preseli Hills, I finally find the Wales I
had expected to see (which might be because I thinking of Ireland?).
A green hill with bedrock sticking up, and a house way up near the
top. I try desperately to get a photo, but the lack of light and the
mist make that difficult, to say it least.
It is a hilly area, but many of the hills are covered in forest.
When I meet a large clearing with a few trees and sheep on, I calls
for a tea-brake. Further in to the woods, a small church is found
way out in nowhere.
I cross many rivers and a lot of time, the road is following the
ridge. That offers a fantastic
view 20-50 kilometres to each side.
But that can not be captured in my camera.
The
higher
arias over 3-400 metres is grass land - and covered in mist. A few
walks reveals some sphagnum moss and hidden wells. I had planned to
do some long walks, but in this weather, it does not really look
that attracting.
As the road descents, is serpentine, and runs around a limestone
wall, nearly marble. Here are a few plants I'm not familiar with,
and the entire landscape is amassing. As the road meets the button
of the gorge, it goes through a river. Wild Rhododendrons are still
flowering around here, along with other colourful bushes.
The
narrow back-roads (and my trusty GPS) have led me to Gastell Henllys
Fort. It is a reconstructed Iron Age fort, and sits on a hilltop.
The path leading up to it, passes some real nice nature. Old trees,
a river, a field with cows and a meadow, filled with flowers. A few
different looking cheep and a pair of happy pigs are kept in modern
enclosures. The five huts with stray roof are within the grass
rampant. Inside each, a bit of the everyday household are found -
from 2400 years ago. This winter, I saw people living quite like
that in southern Africa. A small herb-garden
and a path with wild
flowers make up, what they call the garden.
Quite honestly, I had expected more! The best was the walk to the
fort.
The National Trust have a castle called Cilgerran
nearby, but I can see sufficient from outside the ticket office. A
pair of small houses on the way back to the car look better.
The costal road bring me through small villages, huge, green hills
with numerous sheep and a few glimpses of the sea.
When the road get real close to the sea, I do a walk on the steep
grass field. Around a corner, another fishing
town turns up, but I
head on.
As
I turn inland, I accidentally find the awesome Pisgha Valley.
To me, it look like central Europe: A fertile and rather vide valley
with lakes, hedges and a few farms. If just the sun was here! It
make the border of Hay-on Wye and Mid Wales.
The huge valley continues all the way to
Devil's Bridge or Tree
Bridges. I park right in front of the old and big Hafod Hotel,
looking kind of Alpine.
The bridge is still in use, but a recent steel construction.
Underneath, two older stone bridges are in the same place. I try to
make photos of the deeps of the gorge, but the trees are covering
the narrow gab. A ticked office to one side, and old automat to the
other. I start with the northern side. 600 steps leads down to the -
under the bridges - 3 meter vide and 4-50 meter deep crack. To
both sides, what seems like endless forests covers the steep walls
of the gorge. Old oaks, flowering Rhododendrons, Pines and all other
trees are covered in mosses. Some moss-cousins are half a meter vide
and 30 centimetres high. Ferns are epiphytic, and so are other
un-identified plants.
It is a great walk down the rough slate steps, and each corner
reveals another fantastic view. I recon here are a total of at least
100 meters waterfalls. Sometimes, the trees open a bit, and the deep
gorge can be seen.

I have never seen the Alps, but this is what I imagine they will
look like. Nothing like anything else, I have seen in England and
Wales at all! I can only dream about how it would look with sun
on... Never the less, I make a lot of photos, showing absolutely
nothing.
Small paths are leading horizontal into the forest, and it is
a real nice area with loads of epiphytes on the low stems. Sphagnum
moss are everywhere, and it sure look like it ought to be way more
wet here. No rain for a week, and that is unusual. The falls are
narrow too, I'm told. I am seriously considering to do the entire
walk the other way.
I kind of do that, because I also do the southern walk. It is right
next to the narrow crack. I try to stitch it together, camera on
"high", but it takes nine photos! This was really an unexpected
treat!
I treat my self with a pot of tea at Hafod Hotel,
because I have seen a camp-site sign round the corner. A bit
expensive camp, and with a lot of kids, but I will feel stupid, if I
don't find one on the rather long way to next sight. Tomorrow, I
just feel stupid when I pass numerous sign, but that is better.
I do my usual work, then the long walk to the office to connect with
the world. And I'm not alone. About a million tiny flies are having
a banquet on me.
From this west-coast adventure, I now head around
the corner to the north-coast. |