FAROE DIARY  3

 

 From Diary 2.
12/8. The forecast is not really good, but you newer know around here! I make a slow start on the day - but newer the slowest. Tomorrow, on the other hand, look great in the afternoon, and the last point of interest - which I have found so far, is postponed. We might as well get the second Covid-19 test done today.

Then, at half pass nine, the sun unexpected brake through, and we set out to the peak with the Doppler radar domes. At first, we drive along Kaldbaksbotnur and its fjord. Then we enters the highlands in bright sun, and even the peak is clear. The prison is a great looking building with grass roof and an awesome view.

We reach the top, and can see most of the islands. This time, I actually have a battery in my camera. Besides from the views, I find some small Alpine herbs. Further down, we find the remote Norðradalur, with a few scatted farms, based on hay harvest.

From here, we head north to Vestmanna, just for the drive. The huge hills and mountains look so green in the sun, and the harbour of Vestmanna is covered in bright colours. My co-driver fancy a walk within Thorshavn, along Svatafoss, and we head back.

We shop, and eat dinner at home, and my host reminds me of the boat tour to the bird cliffs of Vestmanna. As the weather is perfect, I book a 14;15 tour, and head back to Vestmanna. The 35 person boat is only booked by ten, and it is a great ride.

Out through the fjord, but when we get to the sea between Faroe and Greenland, the sun vanish. However, the sea-bound cliffs still look great. Here are more and more birds, but not covering the cliffs, as I had hoped for. I see gannets, petrels, terns, puffins, seagulls, ducks and way more.

We enters several narrow gorges, sail under natural bridges and real close to the vertical walls. We see the highest point, towering 684 metres above out heads. Several columns stands close to the huge wall, one is 144 metres tall. At the Elephant, the air is filled with puffins, as they have a colony here. Another is found a bit further up the coast.

Sheep are sailed out here, and lifted up on the grass, way up over the waves thrashing, by hand. They are said to taste way better, than the others, and only enjoyed by the locals. After two hours, we head back pass the salmon farms.

I head back to Thorshavn quite fast, but have to stop breathily at the bay with a beach; Leynar, and at the overview at Kvivik. I pick-up my co-driver, and head down to the hospital to get a 6. day, drive-through Korona Kanning. I had not expected it to take three hours! Late dinner and way too many photos once again. Photos of the day.

13/8. It is going to be a nice weather this afternoon, and we are gambling on taking ferry to Nólsoy, just over lunch. To save energy, the morning is spent with homely cosiness. We pass the time by wishing music on Radio Rødovre, lunch and crossing our fingers for good weather.

It brightens on the way down to the harbour, and Nólsoy is covered in clear sun, under a deep blue sky. The village is located in the saddle, where the two peninsular meet. The church is located at the harbour, and the colourful houses are found up on the low slope. The water in the harbour is crystal clear, and the wind fresh. The city gate is the lower jaw of a large whale.

We trudge out through the western part of the city, along the water. Most houses are old, but extremely well maintained small homes. However, the strip of small boathouses along the harbour is reasonably neglected.
We pass Jens-Kjeld Jensen's small botanical garden, but he is not home, so we can see the stuffed birds, and the world's largest collection of bird-lice species.

We are quickly out of town, and follow a narrow gravel road, out through the small sheep enclosures. Here are many colourful flowers in the narrow areas, the sheep can not reach, and I find several orchids, filled with fruits.
Old stone walls are either the remains of houses or old fences. The wind is cold, the sun warm, and I could use some shelter.

We return to the village, and on the way, we pass many fields, where hay is now being harvested.
We follow the high road through the village, and find Maggie’s, a famous live music place, which also serves beer and tea. Well heated, we make another tour around the city, seeing more charming houses and the dilapidated sheds along the water.

High above the town are some very old houses: boulder-walls with grass roofs. From here, we can see the narrow part that connects the two peninsulas. A little east of the centre, we find the sandy beach, but have forgotten the swimming suits once again.

One more pit-stop at Maggie's, and then down in the shelter by the harbour. Here you can borrow a wheelbarrow, as long as you hand it in again. The ferry arrives, but does not moor, as it sails again after a few minutes - luckily with us on board.

We wander around Thorshavn a bit, to find a cap for a friend, and make a photo of the flower shop. Home past the supermarket, and then a delicious dinner.
Now it seems the sun has been fed up with the Faroe Islands, but we have been really fortuned, and have seen what I wanted to see.
The even is enriched with cake. Photos of the day.

14/8. The day starts with horizontal rain! My host suggested some exciting and beautiful places near Thorshavn last night, but they require I get out of the car. I had thought about a trip around Vágar, but here the weather was supposed to be significantly worse.

At nine o'clock it brightens a little, but the nearby mountains still have hats on. I work with various office items and proofread the diaries (write both one in Danish and one in English).
It's just one of those days, where it's never really lightens and the light rain is pouring down the windows. I have absolutely NOTHING I need to do outside in that kind of weather. Michael puzzles around in the kitchen, preparing the evening's three-course feast. There is a scent of turtle mousse, freshly baked bread, French waffles and other delicious treats. The evening is spend with awesome food, TV bingo and in great company.

15/8. It's the same miserable weather outside the window, and I'll get another late start to the day.  It seems like they had quite a party last night, and I guess my co-driver will be useless today.
A little before noon, it lightens a bit - but the rain is still horizontal. I throw myself out into it, wearing a jacket, hat and gloves - as well as a car. I gamble, and drive over to the other side of the mountain, where it is not unexpectedly amazing sunshine.

I park at a small museum which have some old buildings - like so many others we see. Down by the harbour are 20 eager bathers, but the water is after all up to 8C now ???

I find the whimsical hole, where the water stands and pulsates in height, completely out of step with the waves. It "breathe" far out in the coast, and look so weird.

The whole area is a valley along the Hoydalar river, which continues all the way to the sea-facing cliffs.
It abounds with stunning motifs, beautiful flowers and the sun envelops it all in gusto. It was a mistake to bring gloves and a scarf with me - but a mistake I like to make.

177 photos later, I return home for F1 qualification, homemade burgers (tastes great without the steak) and cosiness in great company.
I challenge Oddfinn in Darts, knowing he is a multi-year Faroese champion. The humiliation is certain, but not worse than I can live with it. Photos of the day.

16/8. I am restless, and get started the day long before the sun - which is quite easy, as it never emerges. In addition to a review with the most beautiful places, I also have a hope of a trip on a gravel road, far up the mountains. A look at the weather forecast shows that a Formula 1 race on TV is probably more realistic…

Nevertheless, we drive out into the fog at 10 o'clock, without high hopes. The fog envelops everything, except the bottom of a single fjord, on the other side of the island. It turns out the road I would try, is not only shrouded in fog but also closed on weekends.

We try the road over the mountain; Oyggjarvegurin, but it's like driving in milk. A quick pit stop in the only open supermarket, and home for lunch. At least F1 races are on, and I am in nice company.
I take the vacuum cleaner for a run, while Michael bakes pancakes. The fog is getting denser, but I have seen, what I was hoping for, and can relax.

17/8. It is time to head home to the heat (Southern Denmark have experienced 8 days with 30C+ - doubt that ever happened before). We fly at noon, so there will not be time for much else. The weather is not for that anyway. However, we just check Múlafossur fall, but the whole fjord is shrouded in fog.

The Faroe Islands have been a fantastic experience, but in addition to the social experience, it requires a car and some sun to get an optimal experience - and we had that! I have spend close to 8700 DKK, around €1150. We have driven 1082 kilometres, and I have made 1581 photos. See the HIGHLIGHTS.