GENERAL INFO (Jump to Diary) Malta officially known as the Republic of Malta and in Maltese: Repubblika ta' Malta, consisting of an archipelago with three inhabitant islands; Malta, Gozo and Comino, in the Mediterranean Sea. It covers 316 km2 and it is the home of 475.000 people - quite a lot for a few small islands! The official languages are English and Maltese; the only Semitic (Arab-like) language in the European Union. People have been living here for at least 7900 years, and it have been ruled by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Greeks, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Sicilians, Spanish, Knights of St. John, French, and British. It gained independence from the United Kingdom in 1964. The predominant religion in Malta is Catholicism with 89%, along with 2,6% Muslims and a few other religions. Malta has a Mediterranean climate with mild winters and hot summers, hotter in the inland areas. Rain occurs mainly in autumn and winter, with summer being generally dry. I might not visit at the perfect time, and I have to overcome the average 15-17C and seasonal rain. Here are not that much unspoiled nature, as most are either cities of farmland. However, there are some limestone habitats unsuited for booths, left in peace. A few animals are endemic: Maltese Wall Lizard; Podarcis filfolensis, Maltese Ruby Tiger Moth; Phragmatobia fuliginosa ssp. melitensis, Maltese Field Beetle; Pimelia rugulosa ssp. melitana, Maltese Swallowtail; Papilio machaon ssp. melitensis, Schembri's Spider Fly; Ogcodes schembrii, Maltese Palpigrade; Eukoenia christiani, Maltese Freshwater Crab; Potamon fluviatile ssp. lanfrancoi, Sicilian shrew, Crocidura sicula (also found on Sicily) and Maltese Honeybee; Apis mellifera ssp.ruttneri. Among the flora, the interesting plants are: Maltese Cliff-orache; Atriplex lanfrancoi, Zerafa's Sea-lavender; Limonium zeraphae, Maltese Everlasting; Helichrysum melitense, Maltese Rock-centaury; Cheirolophus crassifolius, and the Maltese Hyoseris/Gozo Hyoseris; Hyoseris frutescens. I will not be looking for either of them, although I would be pleased to see them. My plan is just to enjoy the islands and see a few sights, listed here.
DIARY
I drive straight to the hotel, aware they
Well,
at least I actually have a room at the hotel. It is not posh, but I have a
view over the narrow bay, and I hardly hear the parties. I find a delicious
wrap around the corner and then unpack - a first for endless years. I
make a cup of tea, write the short diary and watch a bit of a recorded
movie.
25. With the exception of two drunk fellows, eagerly trying to get into my room around two o'clock, I get a good night's sleep. The thing that worries me with the guys are; I have two spare beds and I'm not that sure, I actually have a single room. Well, they eventually give up getting their key to fit.
I have brought tea and breakfast from home, and save a lot of time
that way. As it is Sunday, I head straight for the Sunday fish market in
Marsaxlokk.
The
small stands follow the harbour for quite some distance, and the views over
the numerous colourful boats and the old buildings, make so many motives.
The only challenge is to get the photos in the short glimpses of sunshine.
Here is a nice sandy beach, and a stony one with limestone. I find a few
snails and mussels along with the backbone of a squirt.
St Peter's Pool is quite close, and I follow the coast a bit to the east. It is a fantastic blue natural cove, and the limestone hills are covered in interesting plants. Succulent Asteraceas, odd looking Apiaceaes, large Malvaceaes and much more. Here are quite some flowers, and it does not feel like autumn/winter at all. A single of the lovely Caper Bush; Capparis orientalis are flowering.
I follow the coast a bit west, and here are a lot of
strange limestone formations and areas. Some of the flat areas are filled
with square ponds, which might have been made years ago for harvesting salt?
The sun is nice and warm, but the wind a bit harsh on these coastal slopes. Next stop is a bit further south at Birzebbuga. An ancient limestone cave have gathered loads of bones. The lover layers are from hippos and elephants, which were tiny around here. Then many other bones from fox, deer, otter and many more. On top, some thousand years old domesticated animals remains are found.
A little museum have an impressing collection, and behind
it, the cave can be visited. A few areas have been left untouched, and it is
truly amassing how close the bones are found! The sealing and some areas of
the floor of the cave have some nice stalactites/stalagmites.
I find my way out and see the coastal city of Birzebbuga. A bit down the hill, another attraction is found - I'm told: Borg in-Nadur. It is a small area with some megaliths, carved into shape thousands of years ago. Here, I finally get a blurry photo of the illusive Moorish Gecko; Tarentola mauritanica. I have slightly more success with the St John's Bread Tree; Ceratonia siliqua.
Back through the village and out of a narrow gravel road
along the coast - which is restricted to locals. Again, most of the tiny
fields are surrounded by walls of limestone. I reach Zurrieq with its old windmill; Mitħna tax-Xarolla from 1724. I do a bit walking around in this remote village, but fail to find anything interesting - not even lunch. The most special thing here is the giant flags. Some real detailed, one looking like the Danish flag.
I head on to the area with the famous Blue Grotto;
a limestone arch in the sea. Besides from the arch, here are some
interesting plants like heather; Erica multiflora. A falconer have some
birds, among them an Ibis. The sun is not really playing along, and I might
return one morning, to get the perfect photo.
A bit further west, Hagar Qim & Mnajdra Megalithic temples are found. They are around 5000-5600 years old, and have been excavated. They are now under some huge tents to preserve them. I see a short, blurry 3D show which even have rain! At the actual spot, the temples have been worshiping the fat lady, and several figures have been found here. Some of the huge boulders are truly impressing. The biggest one is nicely square and 6,4 times 3 metres. The estimated weight is 20 tons. I also spot one of the amassing Hummingbird Hawk-moth; Macroglossum stellatarum.
The huge south facing slope is a nature area, and
a narrow trail leads around it. I see a lot of interesting plants like the
dense Euphorbia bushes; Euphorbia dendroides along with some yellow
Ranunkulus. Here are several bulbs, succulents thistles and herbs. I see a
single silk-plant; Cuscuta - Convolvulaceae. The area is dominated by
Oxalis, and I find a few
I reach a high plateau with some deep ponds in. It seems like the ancient have made them, perhaps for fresh water? An impressive limestone wall encloses the area and I follow it back. I pass what might be some stone quarries, unless it is storage for water? I reach the car half pass one, and I have more or less seen the southern third of the island. I am a bit peckish, and a restaurant behind the museum offers a vegetarian pizza. Well, I have to remove four anchovies. That leave me with a ton of cheese, semidry tomatoes and a lot of garlic. Well, I'm hungry enough to enjoy it.
At three, I call it a day. Not that I don't have energy for more: It is just about saving a bit for a sunny day. I head home across the island, and try to find an almost free parking - way up the island hills. On my way to the room, I pass my toothbrush, shampoo and alike in the hallway!?! At least my clothing and computer is still in the draws.
26. Just like the sun, I get a bit of a late start on the day. Finally, I find a supermarket, and stock tea and breakfast for the rest of my stay. Then I pick-up the scenic trail, where I left it yesterday, and with the glimpses of sun, the western coastline still look awesome. Here are so many walls, and sometimes, the road is one-lane, real narrow. I stop at a hilltop near a quarry to look at some natural formations.
The first planned sight of the day is the mysterious
tracks at Clapham Junction. They are thought to be made in
prehistoric time be sledges with huge limestone blocks. Some are real easy
to see, others are visible only due to the vegetation. Again, I find some
interesting plants,
Close bye is the only forest on the island; Buskett Gardens. Here are some citrus plantations and on the steeper parts some pines, oak and olives on the slopes. The impressive Verdala Palace oversees it from its little hill. I do a long walk in the area, but fail to find something interesting.
A
bit further up the coast, the 220 meter high Dingli Cliffs are found.
The road turn into a real
It is getting close to noon, and I head for the big city of Rabat. The narrow road through the small but walled fields leads right into town, and I park in the centre. Here are some real narrow old streets, lined with nice old houses, each with a colourful balcony. I find a traditional dade-roll and fig-roll, both real tasty.
In
A bit odd; the rest of the tombs have been cleared and are now on show for an entrance fee. I doubt the ancient had that in mind, when the paid for a place to rest for eternity? The first catacomb I see is huge; a maze underground in several layers. Some are strange, some extravagant and some small. I see several of the other holes in the ground, but they tend to look alike.
Next to is the private owned St Agatha's Crypt &
Catacombs, but I have
It have an impressive city wall with rampant and all the huge buildings within are impressive. The streets are sealed with limestone, and here are no errors at all. I pass St Paul's Cathedral, but don't feel like paying €5 to see the inside. A relatively new catacomb is open, and it is something else. I see most of the city, and try to capture some of the buildings.
Out on the streets again, I see the pretty Carmelite Priory's church. It is real impressive, matching the surounding city and with a impressive oval dome. I do a few more loops around this Medieval town with its magnificent houses and narrow streets.
I am back at the hotel at four, and it is getting chill by now. I can't figure how the room is heated - probably because it isn't. I work to eight before I set out for some dinner. Then it is back to finish and make a slideshow for the better pictures of the day. For some browsers to work, I have to change into diary 2 by now. |