From Diary 3.
14/11.
Day 7. It is a rainy period, and to avoid it, I try to make it
by the central highland towards the west, then stick to lower ground
and if necessarily; the coast.
It is steep up, into the mountains. The GPS gets it’s way, and we do
some of the minor and real steep roads, while the bus do the detours
on the main-road.
First through
domestic
areas, then a bit of chestnuts and then forest. Starting with mixed,
then a belt of pine.
The highland is, just like the cost, cowered in sunshine. I have to
stop at some of the better rock formations, when the pines have
given up. And with Teide as background, the motives are numerous.
I
do
a long hike in a almost barren area, when I reach Teide National
Park. Rough lava stick
up through the fine, yellowish gravel,
and a few plants embrace the boulders. It could not look more
beautiful, despite here are frost on the ground.
I pass Teide without
stopping, but then the area gets "Ugly Coyote", with fingers of
bedrocks, reaching for the sky. And the few parking options
are more than full.
Eventually, I reach the Mirador Narices del Teide on TF-38,
but turn around without stopping .
I
follow
TF-21 down towards the south coast, mainly through pines. The clouds
start to drift in, but I head on to Vilaflor, the highest
located village. I park in an alley at 1400 meters height, and
around the corner, their huge church make up the most of the centre.
Along with a huge and modern park.
Around
are small farms and houses, most with small gardens, containing
figs, vine, potatoes, lemons, oranges, almond and a wide array of
crops and flowers.
Huge stonewalls, an old mill, sheets overgrown with vine, a ravine –
it have it all, except sun. And only 14C. I see it all, and with
sun, I would
have a thousand pictures to proof. I might have to come back.
In my persuade for
sun, I continue down towards
the coast, although it is
tourist-infected. The first part is dominated by terraces with
flowering potatoes. Then vine become the dominating crop. The small
fields are covered in almost white lava gravel.
Little
San Miguel de Abona make me stop. It have a lot of parking,
but I fail to figure why. I do the line of siesta-closed shops and
find a cuppa. The sun try to penetrate the mist, and I see the sun
at the beach, 600 meters down. The last part is dominated by huge
banana shelters.
A
breath
stop in Las Galletas confirms, I don’t miss anything here. It
is a new tourist town with apartments, cafes and bars. A lot of
trails leads down to the most southern point; Punta de La Salema.
Roads, on the other hand, are scars.
I find one which terminates at a giant gate to a banana-farm. Then
back and ditch the car at the edge of the vast wasteland.
Here are only a few
plants, but it appears to have
been farmed a century ago. Aqueducts,
made from light volcanic rocks leads down towards the wild coast.
The
most southern point is made up by black rocks, and they look like
perfect bird baths. I gather a few beach-finds, and walk back, while
I document the few plant species.
At four, I set the GPS
for home. It recommends the southern coastal road; 106 kilometres,
and fine with me. Mainly because I didn't know the traffic grinded
to a hold, 15 kilometres from home. It add half an hour to the tour,
and I see the sunset just out of town.
The
highlights from Day 7. All
photos from Day 7.
15/11.
Day 8. The car gets a day off, and I a long walk down to Puerto
de la Cruz. It take me well over an hour to the 3,5 km downhill, as
I get lost several times. First in the lovely old La Orotava, where
people get banquets delivered by several bakers, on their doorknobs.
I finally get to cross the austopista. Then I follow a cobblestone
road for quite some time. It must be the old main road from Puerto
de la Cruz and La Orotava. It leads through former farmland and
banana plantations.
I
finally
meet a café, right next the entrance to the botanical garden from
1795. Jardin de Aclimatacion de la Orotava is a proper
botanical collection, with names and well kept. But it is a forest,
almost entirely covered by the giant trees. I see a single plant I’m
unfamiliar with Dwarf Clusia; Clusia fluminensis from Brazil.
The centrepiece is a massive Australian banyan; Ficus macrophylla
with numerous aerial roots.
From
here,
it is yet another long walk, this time through the newer tourist
town. Then the huge Parque de la Sortija is found. 200 times
500 meters with different vegetation, a cafe and a church. Not a
botanical garden, but nice. Several areas are like ravines with
native plants.
I
can
see the port area, but also the modern town with low skyscrapers,
and fail to talk myself into the walk down – and up from that.
Further more, my GPS is real low on battery, and the many blind
roads on the hillside, is a challenge.
I follow a huge ravine for some time, and get glimpses of some
farmland from time to time. I reach a modern area, and find water
and lunch
at their underground supermarket.
By pure luck or unknown talent, I find the old cobblestone road,
cross the autopista and it looks familiar, from this morning. I pass
old La Orotava,
and see the disappointing park. Then through
some real nice looking old buildings. I’ve been walking for six
hours, but it is the GPS which is in desperate need for a recharge.
It get half an hour.
Bach
through
old La Orotava with magnificent old buildings and overseeing the old
domestic area below. The shops are closed this Saturday afternoon,
but they do leave their houses out. And some great looking dragonblood trees.
The
highlights from Day 8. All
photos from Day 8.
And then into the next page; Diary 5. |