My receptionist suggested a lot of sights last evening, and I figure a walk
around the central part would make a great day.
Only around 7-8 kilometres each way, no reason to rent a e-bike: Pretty soon, I'm drawn into the bushes, as a sign show
of to Shwe Zi Gone Pagoda. The first I meet is a rather disappointing
pagoda, and if that is the standard, it will be a short day. Actually, I
find the local petrol station more interesting with its cola
bottles of gasoline. I head a bit further out the dusty sand-road, and
now it start to look like something. Two giant Chinthe are guarding the
entrance to a waste
I head further out the
A new, kind of nature area, but the amount of invasive
plants are scary. Here seems bone dry, and it is a sandy soil, but every
thing seems so fresh.
The plan was to walk straight down to the enclosed
area and Old Bagan, but my trail must resemble a bind and mentally disabled
ant's, the way I keep zigzagging over through the bushes. By pure luck, I
pass one of my way-points; The Pagoda of Htilominio. To judge from the
amount of e-bikes, taxis and even busses, not to forget the souvenir shops,
this must be big!
Nearby, two guys want to show me another building. Within
is the usual Buddha, but also some nice wall paintings. All from the 12th
century. I head further out through the bushes by the trails left by the
cows. Despite my efforts, I fail to find any interesting native plants.
As I try to make it back to the enclosure, I pass a local
restaurant, who have tea. And while I enjoy that, they bring some food.
Vegetarian and tasty. The Mahabodi is no exception, here are
just more people and shops. I am still hunting a small, golden pagoda, but
it seems Next to it is a huge, wooden and gold covered
structure. It is the Thiri Zaya Bumi Bagan Golden Palace. I have a breath
look from the outside, and I fail to feel the urge to pay 5.000K to get in. Then I reach the huge Thathyinyu Pagoda. One of the
young shopkeepers follow me around. When I tell her I'm Danish (because she
asked), she great me in good Danish. She is a fantastic linguist, and wasted
in a little shop, with the local lacquer wares.
I walk back through the enclosure, and find the other
entrance/exit. Then I head out in the wild again. I find the The sun is getting depressingly low, and I try to
reach the last sights in the southern part. At the same time, I have to
consider how to get the eight kilometres back to the hotel, before dark. It
seems like the forest of pagodas will continue in all directions, and I try
to capture the last sunset photos.
I try to flag-down some pick-ups on the way back, but
fails. Where I was offered around 25 moped rides this morning, none are
found here. Within the enclosure, in the dusk, a horse-carriage driver ask
where I'm going. He offers me a tour back for 7.000K, and considered the
lack of light and the eight hours of walking I have done so far, I agree. Back at the hotel, I wash The rest of the evening is spend on the 332 photos, although I don't bother to tag every pagoda with its name. It get way too close to midnight anyway! Of cause, this leads to a Bagan, day1 slideshow.
19/12
Next up is the pointy Shwe-san-daw Pagoda. It is a bit
like a pyramid, and one get to climb it. The first that catches my eye, is
the local farmers harvesting on a nearby field. The the entire scenery takes As I head further out in the more wild area, the pagodas are mixed with small fields and here are quite some farmers. Some are carrying green branches back to their cows, some are herding the Indian oxen and goats on the dusty roads. That do create some great motives! I think even the cows are smiling here.
I reach another pyramid-like pagoda; the giant
Dhammajangyi. To get a good photo, I climb one of the huge brick-gravel
mounts around it. Here I discover a bitch's den with small poppies.
Somehow, I have made it back to the Shwe-san-daw Pagoda,
and this time on the farmers side. I see the harvest with sickle and how it
is driven
away on the ox-wagons. I reach the large
Dhamma Ya Zi Ka Pagoda, which is
being re-golden. It is a complex building, where each of the main-side
buildings are impressive by them self. Next to Sulamani Guphaya, a rather large lake seems to
have formed quite recently. A few herons are flying over it, while
bee-eaters,
I pass some more cows, kicking up dust, and cross the
drive way to the square Pya Tha Da. It have a great Buddha in each side, and
I head for the top. Again, the view is fantastic. So many ancient buildings in
a - well, honestly; rather large area. I loop back to Bu, the golden stupa next to the river. Further up stream, I find a cafe way up on the brink. Lousy "homemade ginger tea" but a great view. The tour boats are still shoulder by shoulder along the shore, but none on the river. It must be off-season. I head inland again, and find one of the
ancient building. It is 1100 years old, and seem to do fine. I guess it is a While I botanises in the area, I find a vine I'm not familiar with. Another yellow flower seems a bit familiar, but I can't place it. Besides from that, I have not, despite my best intentions, been able to find anything thing botanical interesting. And I have no photos to prove it! I work my way all the way down to New Bagan, and follow the
sealed road
The sun is disappearing behind the pagodas and trees, and
I figure I better head home. The few pagodas which must be climbed, are known
for their sunset views, but I can't recall which one is the nearest. Or which
one it is at all.
Back in Nyaung U, I return the e-bike and walk to Moe's Vegetarian and get some hot & sweet vegetables and a fried rice with
vegetables. Then I book a tour for Mt. Popa National Park, next door to my hotel. It seems
like everybody are selling the same tour anyway. I would have like to have
more time there, but on the other hand; botanizing have so fare been I had planned to see the green, volcanic lake of Twin Daung, but due to the instant planning, I missed it by 200 kilometres up north. And I might run out of time. Back at the hotel, I start the work. As usual, I sit on the roof where the breakfast restaurant is - along with the Wi-Fy. And a few mosquitoes. The many photos are reduced to Bagan, day 2
20/12
After a hour through the usual acacia-land, we do a stop
at a "factory" producing sugar from palms and oil from
sesame seeds. An ox is walking around in narrow circles, driving a stick
around the substance. And of cause, it is only to sell their products.
Just before we reach column of a extinct volcano and
Twin Daung, we do a
photo stop. Besides from all the golden glimmer, it
reminds me so much of the Greek Metoria monastery. Then we are dropped off
at the 777 step staircase, leading to the top. I figure I give the temple a
go, before botanising the surrounding national park. After a two hour drive,
we have two hours here. Most of the way up, souvenir shops are packed along the steps. Mainly for the pilgrims, it seems. The outlook improves for every pagoda and temple I stop at, but so do the littering. The entire mountain is one big dumpsite! And here are no litter boxes anyway. For me, it does spoil the nature and quite some of the experience.
The view from the top is great, but the only access I can
find to the nature, is areas covered in trash.
Back down to the street, I head further on, and a
concrete path leads out in the wild. Where the mount is basalt, the
surroundings are sandstone and something getting to be sandstone. The plants
are green, but again, the invasive seems to dominate.
A fast walk through the mainstreet
Back in Nyaung U, I take a chance, and jump off, in the
other end of town. A short walk bring me to the market I have read about,
and it is big. Then I find the other half - and then the last half! The
first part are local grown vegetables. Then some weaved stuff and souvenirs
and then the things wrapped in plastic and textiles.
I find some cold noodles and then a cup of warm tea. Back
at the hotel, I ask for a connection to Magwe/Minby town, and the helpful
receptionist arrange it for me. Nine in the morning; perfect!
It is depressingly faster to write and sort, crop and tag
the photos, than it is to upload a the few for the diary and the diary itself. It is now time to start on Diary 6 and the western part with the coast. |
Kind of a
moped with a battery on, which is popular among the tourists. I have not
seen electrified vehicles since Bangladesh. Here, these suicidal and
soundless ninjas caused a severe health issue! Not much better with French
teenagers behind the steer!
area, filled with ancient buildings. 
sandy trail, trying to reach the
river. It leads through a village with bamboo huts and a few dogs. Then the
bushes takes over, scattered with ruins of pagodas. 
Funky
modern among bamboo huts. Everywhere I look out on the fields and bushland,
pagodas seems to pop-up. I head our of one dusty road after the other, and
every time I reach one pagoda, there more pops-up behind it.
but no
tourists at all. The locals are doing a bit of fishing an washing, else it
is quiet. 
to be impossible. One the other hand, I can find the perfect little brass
tiger and dragon I was unable to find in Bangladesh and Bhutan. Then I see
some small bone statues, and among them is a nice Chinthe, which must do it.
Afterwards, I figure I have to have two, as they always come in pairs. I
manages to find its brother, and a bit lucky, as I have not seen bone-work
anywhere else. Must be local!
the wild again. Surprisingly few wild animals;
just some grasshoppers and butterflies.
The road leads out the other end of the rampant, and a
huge, new building in classic style houses the archeologically museum.
Interesting, I'm sure, but not today. Next to it is the Gawdapalin Pagoda
and then the Bu Stupa, next to the river. 
Mingalar Zedi,
which is being restored. Apparently, I'm not welcome, but then they should
mend their barbwire fences better (although, I have to admit; it was a bit
tricky to get through). 
my fingers, and head back to
Moe's Vegetarian Restaurant. Considered it is vegetarian, I would have
expected something way more interesting, but it have to do. Sea grease and
mushrooms, another dish of fried rice. 
Right after breakfast, I go next door to get a e-bike. I kind of pick-up the
trail from yesterday, but have to have a look on the larger pagodas I passed
yesterday, without a closer look. I try not to make photos of the smaller ones - but it is hard!
A ox-wagon make a great motive, then I reach the huge Ananda Temple. It is
like a box with a box with a box and a hidden Buddha everywhere. 
over, and it is astonishing. Thousands of pagodas can be seen from here. It
is like a forest of red or white constructions, scattered in the bushland.
My Killer Ninja have lost its breath, and I give it a
change to recover, by having dinner at one of the pagodas. I get a great
fried noodles with veggies and a cup of tea. Unfortunately, it does not
help on the Ninja, and I recon I better get it home before I have to carry it! It should
be able to do at least 40 kilometres on a full charge, but the odometer do
not work, and I guess the deep sand have its cost. 
out to the
area, and figure I will save 2.000K, and rent another e-bike elsewhere, and
thereby save the horse.
flycatchers,
Willy-wagtails and crows are found around it. 
bushland
with mainly Acacias. A few flowering plants can be found, but they look so
African and Madagascarian to me. Even the Cucurbitaceaes with their
different red fruits.
stupa, made in green bricks. Next to it is the only Indian temple
around Bagan, which
also is one of the older buildings. Due to the recently earthquake, it is
closed, but I get a glimpse of the Indian goods through the windows. 
back - to Bu.
I do a walk in the area, and then a cup of proper tea with milk, and as it is four in the afternoon, I like to sit in the
sun.
It it does
not say; Climbing propitiated, I guess it is OK? I just have to find the
inner staircase. 
real
disappointing.
The shared taxi I have booked a seat in, turns out to be a closed minibus
with soft seats - and I'm not complaining. I have had enough of the wooden
seats and drafty pick-ups. The company, on the other hand, is fare from as
warm as the locals. Here, I'm surrounded by Frenchmen and Russians. None
reply my cheerful "Good morning" nor my smile. Tough crowd! Must be a living
hell to be that arrogant!
for them, while others are cleaning their shit up from the steps afterwards.
The first have easy by collection money, the latter do a much needed job, as we
are all barefooted. 
The Buddha figures are in most places more or less
covered in more LED light, than I have in the growing chambers - and
that is a lot! Here seems to be no local monks, only the pilgrim monks with
their smartphones, taking selfies. 
reveals nothing new,
and the view from uphill is partly covered in white clouds. I get a quick
cup of tea at a local shop. I have long time ago discovered the chauffeurs
have their places, and they have to share. 
some slideshows for later upload.