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 MARTINIQUE    INFO & DIARY  1

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 GENERAL INFO (Jump to Diary)
Martinique is an island in the Lesser Antilles of the West Indies, in the eastern Caribbean Sea. A part of the French West Indies, Martinique is an overseas department and region and a single territorial collectivity of the French Republic. It is a part of the European Union.
Martinique has a land area of 1,128 square kilometres, oval, roughly 70 times 30 kilometres. The north of the island is especially mountainous. It features four ensembles of pitons; volcanoes and mornes; mountains. The highest point is the volcano of Mount Pelee at 1,397 meters. The south is more easily traversed, though it still features impressive geographic features.
It have a population of 349,925 citizens, of which all speaks both French and Martinican Creole - both are useless to me. 86% are Catholic, 5,6% Protestants, 0,5% Muslims, 0,3% Hindi and the rest are non religious.

The history - short: The island was occupied first by Central American Arawaks, from the 1st century AD and the Caribs came from the Venezuelan coast around the 11th century. Christopher Columbus passed in 1493, and landed in 1502. The French started settlement in 1635, not appreciated by the Indigenous Kalinago, but eventually, they were neutralised.
Flora: The northern end of the island catches most of the rainfall and is heavily forested, featuring species such as bamboo, mahogany, rosewood and West Indian locust. The south is drier and dominated by savannah-like brush, including cacti, Copaiba balsam, logwood and acacia.
I am not sure which caudiciforms I can be lucky to stumble over, but I might find
Arracacia xanthorrhiza, Blechnum occidentale, Ceratosanthes tuberosa, Cnidoscolus chayamansa, Curcuma longa, Dioscorea cayenensis, Doyerea emetocathartica, Euphorbia hypericifolia, Euphorbia petiolaris, Macfadyena unguis-cat, and Talinum paniculatum.
Fauna: Anole lizards, which I love, are numerous, and fer-de-lance snakes or Martinique Lancehead; Bothrops lanceolatus, which is one of the few animals I fear, are native to the island. Endemic reptiles also include the Martinique Racer; Erythrolamprus cursor, the Martinique Threadsnake; Tetracheilostoma bilineatum, the Martinique Anole; Anolis roquet, the Lesser Martinique Skink; Capitellum metallicum, the Greater Martinique Skink; Mabuya mabouya, and some un-described dwarf geckos.
I would like to see the Martinique Volcano Frog; Allobates chalcopis, which is an endemic poison frog, although a bit dull in appearance.
Besides from the introduced mammals species, here are several native species of bats.

This is kind of  an unusual holyday-tour for me, compared to the extensive explore-expeditions. The island is relatively small and does not hold that many points of interest, but I have 15 days. I just hope here are some nice weather, drivable roads and interesting nature.
As I leave Denmark in frost, I have to wear a jacket and shoos. And as I expect rain, I have added a small umbrella to the light luggage. I only have the usual 400 grams and added 350 grams flip-flops, 150 grams umbrella and the old 600 grams leather bag. A total of 1500 grams + the cloths I'm wearing.

DIARY
11/2 2025: Day 1. I get the direct train to the airport at 07;20. That leaves plenty of time for breakfast in the airport, and then I fly to Paris. I don't feel for a stopover, and head on, after two hours, spend on eating and not finding a way to edit Word-files off-line, due to a recent greedy update. On the bright side, I get an upgrade to Premium/First Class. 30 centimetres spare leg-room in contrast to minus five, better food, free Wi-Fi, numerous offers on champagne and snacks, along with a window seat. Strangely enough, the nice girl sitting next to my sits in her bra, while she cutlets her pussy: A nice black Burmese, which newer get to leave the box.
A real long day in the air, spend watching films, and I reach the French Caribbean  island of Martinique, just after sunset. It is still within the European union, but surely one of the warmer and more exotic places. 

I get to buy a cup of coffee, while I wait for the shuttle to bring me to my car. It starts to rain heavily for ten minutes, and then I stock some food and water at a mall in Le Robert, although I only got one minute, before they close at eight sharp. Then it is straight to my Top Hill hostel, in La Trinite, on the other side of the island. It has a great view over the bay and jungle-like garden.

The tiny hostel only got five beds, and I get the single one. Frequently showers hit the area, and the night is full of the voices of cicadas, toads and frogs. I spent the evening cooking, then chatting with the German woman, who have travelled quite some by boat. Then I call it a day, after 22 hours on the move, at midnight.   

Day 2. It is a bit chill during the night, and the towel does not help enough for me to get a proper sleep. The two open windows either. It lightens at six, but we get no sun at first. Newer the less, the views from my bed are astonishing, and the quire from hummingbirds and other small birds in the jungle-garden, is great. The forecast for the next four days, on the other hand, seems a bit wet, but I got days to shuffle around.
My first target is Saint-Marie, a little town on route, at the north-eastern coast. On the way, and in the town, I meet some short but intense showers. And it is quite windy, spoiling the comfort of my umbrella. 
I park in front of the light blue church, Eglise Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption de Sainte-Marie, and wait some minutes for the rain to stop. I then find the beach, a tiny market with fruits, where the fisherman mending nets and some horses and goats. 

I support the town by buying coffee and get a most needed haricot, with another cup of coffee.
Here are real nice old wooden houses and some modern concrete ones, struggling to hold the paint. It might not be the rich part of the island, but the locals are so smiling. 

Then I follow the coast north, through banana plantations, great looking real fertile forests, over huge hills and over numerous rivers. Here are a few tiny towns and some real great looking coves. 

I reach the entrance for Gorges de la Falaise, a rainforest canyon. I did stock water and half a meter baguette on the way, and start with brunch. It turns out, I have to pay €10 for the entrance and additional rent a wetsuit and shoos. Not for a 450 meter track, swimming options or not! I find another free trail, right next my car, heading up towards Mont Pelee. It is so nice and sunny, and I set of, through the enormous bamboos, tree ferns, Selaginella, Impatiens, Begonias, Urticaceae, fig-trees, orchids, bromeliads and way more. It is the farmers rocky road, allied with natural rainforest. I hear a lot of birds, but only see three species of snails. I fear one giant is from Africa. I only sense the small and lightning fast anoles a few times. 
After 100s of green photos and two hours, I'm back at the car for lunch, then I head down for Distillerie JM

The location along a green gorge with a river is fantastic. However, the short guided tour from the parking lot to the shop, is a real disappointment - and in French. I don't buy tokens for tasting, and I can't see the distillery, nor bottle factory. A short visit for sure. 

Further out along the beautiful coastal-road, I reach the little fishing town of Grand-Riviere. Some huge waves hit the harbour. I make a stroll in the spray, and see some brown pelicans. A bit further out, the black beach of La Place de Sinai is found. A few locals enjoy the water, while I do with the views to the beach, waves and cliffs. Here are a few tiny anoles and a lot of black and bluish sand.

I have only experienced a few short showers during the day, and I decide to head up Mount Pelee once again, but from another side.
It is back along the real beautiful coastal road, offering only a few glimpse of the blue sea. I pass several gorges on old iron bridges, and pass on a new concrete bridge, over a huge gorge. 
The hills or mountains are reel steep, most covered in Convolvulaceae covered trees. Here are many small and a few large banana plantations, along with some sugar cane and Cucurbitaceae fields. I make a few short stops in the tiny towns, which all are rather humble. 

Near the peak of Mont Pelee, I get a coffee, while I wait for the weather to improve. It is real windy, a bit misty, and hard to tell, if the next will be sun or rain. In the end, I decide to return another day. The trails in Martinique are general not made for rain, as they turn into real slippery muddy creeks.

I chose the little central mountain road; D1 home, and it is fabulous! The only reason I make it home at five is: There is nearly nowhere to park along the road. 

I make coffee, backup photos and enjoy the views, while I listen to the birds. I have seen the north-eastern part of the island, but I will be back. 
I finish the diary, cook dinner and then my French and French Guiana roommates return. The German woman is swapped with yet another French man this evening, and I let the four guys sip rum by themselves, as my Frence is non-exsisting, and their English limited. 
 The highlights from the day     All the better photos of the day (Open in a new windows).

Day 3: Another sleepless night, this time caused by the new guy, snoring all night. I did close one window and got a blanket, which made it comfortable.

The day is set off for exploring the south-western peninsula. It is an hours drive to the first site - and then some. The traffic grind to a nearly hold, five kilometres outside Fort-de-France. I find an alternative little road through the mountains, and it is a treat. It might not be faster, but the views are great.

The long, one lane road to Anse Noire, with its black sand and blue water, is where all the tourists are, it seems. I turn around near the beach, and find a spot for the car 1,5 km back - and then the rain starts. I'll be back. The only rain I experience the entire day. 

Next planned stop is along the coast as well: Les Anses d'Arlet, another tourist favour. As expected, I'm too early for the classic photo of the town from the pier, but here are many other interesting motives. Despite the tourism, it seems so authentic and unspoiled. Fishing boats, charming shacks and huts, alleys and the spotless beach. 

I do some walks around, and enjoy the shadow and a coffee, at a little humble back-alley place. 
The tiny market have fruits and souvenirs. I grab lunch at the bakery; two tasty cakes, and then I finally manages to make the wanted photo from the pier. 

I head further on along the western coast, and make a breath stop in a little fishing village. 

A bit out in the sea, Le Rocher du Diamant is found. It is a basalt rock, and nothing special. But the forest reaching the beach is special. Rather dry with scatted Opuntia, Cereus, Bursera, Acacia and Sansevierias. Here are some huge cattle fields with a few Indian oxen and more cane. 

Further along the coast, Memorial de l'Anse Caffard is found, with its sculptures. They are fare from as impressive, as I had expected. Just some white-painted concrete, about human height. The blue sea, on the other hand, looks great. 

I set the GPS for the town of Trois-Rivieres, making the circle of the peninsular finish. I stop at a few of the palm-lined beaches and then at Trois Rivieres. It is yet another distillery, and I get to see a tiny bit. A new windmill model, some old wooden tanks and some new tanks in stainless steel. 

A bit further on, The Blue Pearl Beach is found. I park at the river-mouth, and see the fishing dinghies and a bit of the mangrove. The town and beach is not interesting - unless you are a local. 

Then I set the GPS for the huge mountainlake La Manzo. It is a fairly new dammed lake, overfilled and hard to get to. Then I head home through the mountains by some small roads. 

I'm home at four, but I have had sun enough for one day, by now. I chat with yet another Freshman. He is hitching boats in the Caribbean, and sleeps mainly in the wild.
At six o'clock, the day and night shift doubles for ten minutes. Then the crickets, frogs and toads have it to themselves, while the birds relax.
A little quite red-spotted gecko control the mosquitoes in the kitchen quite well. I guess on Tokay; Gekko gecko from Asia, and that turns out to be right.

The snoring French man is thankfully exchanged with a French woman, visiting her daughter. Highlights     All photos
               Time to head on in Diary 2.

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