GENERAL INFO (Jump to Diary)
Martinique is an island in the
Lesser Antilles of the West Indies, in the eastern Caribbean Sea. A part of
the French West Indies, Martinique is an overseas department and region and
a single territorial collectivity of the French Republic. It is a part of
the European Union.
Martinique has a land area of 1,128 square kilometres, oval, roughly 70
times 30 kilometres.
The north of the island is especially mountainous. It
features four ensembles of pitons; volcanoes and mornes;
mountains. The highest point is the volcano of Mount Pelee at 1,397 meters.
The south is more easily traversed, though it still features impressive
geographic features.
It have a population of 349,925 citizens, of which all speaks both French and Martinican Creole - both
are useless to me. 86% are Catholic, 5,6%
Protestants, 0,5% Muslims, 0,3% Hindi and the rest are non religious.
The history
- short: The island was occupied first by Central American Arawaks, from
the 1st century AD and the Caribs came from the Venezuelan coast around the
11th century. Christopher Columbus passed in 1493, and landed in 1502. The
French started settlement in 1635, not appreciated by the Indigenous Kalinago, but eventually, they were neutralised.
Flora:
The northern end of the island catches most of the rainfall
and is heavily forested, featuring species such as bamboo, mahogany ,
rosewood and West Indian locust. The south is drier and dominated by
savannah-like brush, including cacti, Copaiba balsam, logwood and acacia.
I am not sure which caudiciforms I can be lucky to stumble over, but I might
find Arracacia
xanthorrhiza,
Blechnum
occidentale,
Ceratosanthes
tuberosa,
Cnidoscolus
chayamansa,
Curcuma longa,
Dioscorea
cayenensis,
Doyerea
emetocathartica,
Euphorbia hypericifolia,
Euphorbia petiolaris,
Macfadyena
unguis-cat, and
Talinum paniculatum.
Fauna: Anole lizards, which I love,
are numerous,
and fer-de-lance snakes or Martinique Lancehead; Bothrops lanceolatus, which is one of the few animals I fear, are native to
the island. Endemic reptiles also include the Martinique Racer; Erythrolamprus cursor, the
Martinique Threadsnake; Tetracheilostoma bilineatum, the Martinique
Anole; Anolis roquet, the Lesser Martinique Skink; Capitellum
metallicum, the Greater Martinique Skink; Mabuya mabouya, and
some un-described dwarf geckos.
I would like to see the Martinique Volcano Frog; Allobates chalcopis,
which is an endemic poison frog, although a bit dull in appearance.
Besides from the introduced mammals species, here are several native species of
bats.
This is kind of an unusual holyday-tour
for me, compared to the extensive explore-expeditions. The island is relatively small and does
not hold that many points of interest, but I have 15 days. I just hope here are some nice weather,
drivable roads
and interesting nature.
As I leave Denmark in frost, I have to wear a jacket and shoos. And as I expect
rain, I have added a small umbrella to the light luggage. I only have the
usual 400 grams and added 350 grams flip-flops, 150 grams umbrella and the
old 600 grams leather bag. A total of 1500 grams + the cloths I'm wearing.
DIARY
11/2 2025:
Day 1.
I get the direct train to the airport at 07;20.
That leaves plenty of time for breakfast in the airport, and then
I fly to Paris. I don't feel for a stopover, and head on,
after two hours, spend on eating and not finding a way to edit Word-files
off-line, due to a recent greedy update. On the bright side, I get an
upgrade to Premium/First Class. 30 centimetres spare leg-room in contrast to minus five,
better food, free Wi-Fi, numerous offers on champagne and snacks, along with a window seat. Strangely enough, the nice girl
sitting next to my sits in her bra,
while she cutlets her pussy: A nice black Burmese, which newer get to leave
the box.
A real long day in the air, spend watching films, and I reach the French
Caribbean island of Martinique,
just after sunset. It is still within the European union, but surely one of
the warmer and more exotic places.
I get to buy a cup of coffee, while I wait for the shuttle to bring me to my car. It
starts to
rain heavily for ten minutes, and then I stock some
food and water at a mall in Le Robert, although I only got one minute,
before they close at eight sharp. Then it is straight to my Top
Hill hostel, in La Trinite, on the other side of the island.
It has a great
view over the bay and jungle-like garden.
The tiny hostel only got five beds, and I get the single one. Frequently
showers hit the area, and the night is full of the voices of cicadas, toads and
frogs. I spent the evening cooking, then chatting with the German woman, who
have travelled quite some by boat. Then I call it a day, after 22 hours on the
move, at midnight.
Day
2.
It is a bit chill during the night, and the towel does not help enough for
me to get a proper sleep. The two open windows either. It lightens at six, but we get no sun at first. Newer the
less, the views from my bed are astonishing, and the quire from hummingbirds
and other small birds in the jungle-garden, is great. The forecast for the
next four days, on the other hand, seems a bit wet, but I got days to
shuffle around.
My
first target is
Saint-Marie,
a little town on route, at the north-eastern coast. On the way, and in the
town, I meet some short but intense showers. And it is quite windy, spoiling
the comfort of my umbrella.
I
park in front of the light blue church, Eglise Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption
de Sainte-Marie, and wait some minutes for the rain to stop. I
then find the
beach, a tiny market with fruits, where the fisherman mending nets and some horses
and goats.
I support the town by buying coffee and get a most needed haricot, with
another cup of coffee.
Here are real nice old wooden houses and some modern concrete ones,
struggling to hold the paint. It might not be the rich part of the island,
but the locals are so smiling.
Then I follow the coast north, through banana plantations, great looking
real fertile forests, over huge hills and over numerous rivers. Here are a
few tiny towns and some real great looking coves.
I reach the entrance for Gorges de la Falaise,
a rainforest canyon. I did
stock water and half a meter baguette on the way, and start with brunch. It
turns out, I have to pay €10 for the entrance and additional rent a wetsuit
and shoos. Not for a 450 meter track, swimming options or not! I find another free trail, right next
my car, heading up towards Mont Pelee. It is so nice and sunny, and I set
of, through the enormous bamboos, tree ferns,
Selaginella, Impatiens,
Begonias, Urticaceae, fig-trees, orchids, bromeliads and way more. It is the
farmers rocky road, allied with natural rainforest. I hear a lot of birds,
but only see three species of snails. I fear one giant is from Africa.
I only
sense the small and lightning fast anoles a few times.
After 100s of green photos and two hours, I'm back at the car for lunch, then
I head down for Distillerie JM.
The location along a green gorge with a river is fantastic. However, the
short guided tour from the parking lot to the shop, is a real disappointment
- and in French. I don't buy tokens for tasting, and I can't see the
distillery, nor
bottle factory. A short visit for sure.
Further out along the beautiful
coastal-road, I reach the little fishing town
of Grand-Riviere. Some huge waves hit the harbour. I make a
stroll in the
spray, and see some brown pelicans. A bit further out, the black beach of La Place
de Sinai
is found. A few locals enjoy the water, while I do with the views
to the beach, waves and cliffs. Here are a few tiny anoles and a lot of
black and bluish sand.
I have
only experienced a few short showers during the day, and I decide to
head up Mount Pelee
once again, but from another side.
It is back along the real beautiful coastal road, offering only a few
glimpse of the blue sea. I pass several gorges on old iron bridges, and pass
on a new concrete bridge, over a huge gorge.
The hills or mountains are reel steep, most covered in Convolvulaceae covered
trees. Here are
many small and a few large banana plantations, along with
some sugar cane and Cucurbitaceae fields. I make a few short stops in the tiny towns, which all are rather humble.
Near the peak of Mont Pelee, I get a coffee, while I wait for the weather
to improve. It is real windy, a bit misty, and hard to tell, if the next
will be sun or rain. In the end, I decide to return another day. The
trails in Martinique are general not made for rain, as they turn into real
slippery muddy creeks.
I
chose the little central mountain
road; D1
home, and it is fabulous! The only reason I make it home at five is: There
is nearly
nowhere to park along the road.
I make coffee, backup photos and enjoy the views, while I listen to the
birds. I have seen the north-eastern part of the island, but I will be
back.
I finish the diary, cook dinner and then my French and French Guiana
roommates return. The German woman is swapped with yet another French man
this evening, and I let the four guys sip rum by themselves, as my Frence is
non-exsisting, and their English limited.
The
highlights from the day
All
the better photos of the day (Open in a new windows).
Day
3:
Another sleepless night, this time caused by the new guy, snoring all night.
I did close one window and got a blanket, which made it comfortable.
The day is set off for exploring the south-western peninsula. It is an hours
drive to the first site - and then some. The traffic grind to a nearly hold,
five kilometres outside Fort-de-France. I find an alternative little road
through the mountains, and it is a treat. It might not be faster, but
the views are great.
The
long, one lane road to Anse Noire, with its black sand and blue water,
is where all the tourists are, it seems. I turn around near the beach, and
find a spot for the car 1,5 km back - and then the rain starts. I'll be
back. The only rain I experience the entire day.
Next planned stop is along the coast as well:
Les Anses d'Arlet, another tourist
favour. As expected, I'm too early for the classic photo
of the town from the
pier, but here are many other interesting motives. Despite the tourism, it seems
so authentic and unspoiled. Fishing boats, charming shacks and huts, alleys and the
spotless beach.
I
do some walks around, and enjoy the shadow and a coffee, at a little
humble back-alley place.
The tiny market have fruits and souvenirs. I grab lunch at the bakery; two
tasty cakes, and then I finally manages to make the wanted photo from the
pier.
I head further on along the western coast, and make a breath stop in a
little fishing village.
A bit out in the sea, Le Rocher du Diamant
is
found. It is a basalt rock,
and nothing special. But the forest reaching the beach is special. Rather
dry with scatted
Opuntia, Cereus,
Bursera,
Acacia
and Sansevierias. Here are
some huge cattle fields with a few Indian oxen and more cane.
Further along the coast, Memorial de l'Anse Caffard
is found, with its
sculptures. They are fare from as impressive, as I had expected. Just
some
white-painted concrete, about human height. The blue
sea, on the other hand, looks great.
I
set the GPS for
the town of Trois-Rivieres, making the circle of the peninsular
finish. I stop at a few of the palm-lined beaches and then at Trois Rivieres. It is yet another distillery, and I get to see a tiny bit. A new
windmill model, some old wooden tanks and some new tanks in stainless steel.
A bit further on, The Blue
Pearl Beach is found. I park at the river-mouth, and see the fishing
dinghies and a bit
of the mangrove. The town and beach is not interesting - unless you are a
local.
Then I set the GPS for the huge mountainlake
La Manzo. It is a fairly new
dammed lake,
overfilled and hard to get to. Then I head home through the mountains by
some small roads.
I'm home at four, but I have had sun enough for one day, by now. I chat with
yet another Freshman. He is hitching boats in the Caribbean,
and sleeps mainly in the wild.
At six o'clock, the day and night shift doubles for
ten minutes. Then the crickets, frogs and toads have it to themselves, while
the birds relax.
A little quite
red-spotted gecko control the
mosquitoes in the kitchen quite well. I guess on
Tokay; Gekko gecko
from Asia, and that turns out to be right.
The snoring French man is thankfully exchanged with a French woman, visiting
her daughter.
Highlights
All
photos
Time to head on in Diary 2. |