French                                               
 MARTINIQUE      DIARY  4

 

               From Diary 3.
Day 11: I watch the usual birds, as I eat breakfast: Flycatchers, hummingbirds, black finches, starlings, a few frigate- and mocking birds, along with some more illusive.
A huge black insect patrols the large flowering tree, and it might be a parasitic wasp. The bees like this tree, and I see a single whitish butterfly. The anoles are active as well, despite the lack of sun.

My last unexplored sight is the closest too: Presqu'Île Caravelle with long tracking. Another of my roommates joins in; French Benedictus. We head straight out on the peninsula, and find a five hour track, all around the outer end. It offers some amazing views to one rocky bay after another, although we mainly walk in the slightly dry forest.

We head down to several beaches, and I really have to get myself together, to keep up with Benedictus. I am real glad, I didn’t get to do this trail on a rainy day, as it will become so muddy and slippery. 

We hear quite some birds, see some different butterflies, the local anoles, dragonflies and different crabs. Where the hermit crabs head deep into the forest, the land crabs keep closer to the water. And when we reach the huge mangrove area, they are countless. Some areas have small signal crabs too. I see some interesting plants along the trail like Bursera and Oxalis. 

So many motives, but few photos later, I get to retrieve the car, parked way too early. Then we head a bit inland to ser Plage de l'Anse l'Étang, another perfect and empty beach.
Benedictus get to cool down, and then we find a pasteria in Tartane, with real nice salads. I get one with generous amount of feta. 

I return Benedictus to the much needed changer, and get a coffee in the shadow, as it is 30C today.
Then I find the nearest town, La Trinity, just to see it. It have a great white beach and two long streets with some old houses in-between. Most shops are tiny, except the three Chinese, selling everything, not eatable. I find a Malta, and enjoy it at the beach.  Highlights.     All photos

Day 12. The night got its share of rain, but the sun is up for the day. I have seen all I came for, and set the day of to sharing some of the best sights with Carolina. Up across the mountains by lovely D1, leading “straight” to the cosy Saint-Pierre town.

Here are still so many lovely old houses along the beach, and additional a Saturday market, mainly for the locals. When we have seen it all, we head up to the base of Mont Pelee. 

Here are hardly any clouds, and we walk almost the top. We see so many interesting plants on the way, but only a few animals. We agree on turning around where the trail get real muddy and steep, 100 meters from the top - and in a cloud.

From here, we follow the great highland- or rather mountain road of N3. On the road, we did see two lightning-fast mongooses and a flat opossum. I actually manages to re-find the favourite jungle, near the Alma waterfall. Next stop is at the high old bridge and Absalon falls. 

Then we follow N3 down south till it terminates, then further on to Carolina’s new hostel down south.

It have been a great day, with only rain, when we were at a bakery or driving. It was real nice to share my “top five” with someone who really appreciated the same things as I. 

I shop milk at the huge mall Oceanis, on the way home. A bit strange French milk is cheaper here, compared with Danish in Denmark. I spend the evening chatting with a Swiss meteorologist.  Highlights     All photos

Day 13. Roomers has it; La Trinity, the town just down the bay, will have its annual carnival this afternoon. As I have nothing else planned, I make a slow start on the day, watching the finches raiding the kitchen.

At eleven, I get restless, and head down town. Well, I get to drive 1000 meters, then walk 1600. Cars are everywhere, and the lines last way out of town. 

The town is ready, with scenes, stalls, police and toilets. It is far from crowded yet, people just sit around in their folding chairs, having a good time. I find a baguette with vegetables, then a coffee.
It start to drizzle, then rain for quite some time. I find shelter at the closed market, along with a bunch of gendarmeries. Most shops are closed, the huge Chinese shops close at noon. 
I make another long stroll in the cosy town, and avoid several showers in bakeries. 

A bit passed three, the parade starts. Loud live music, so many groups. Some real fancy, colourful, undressed, funny, sexy, odd, scary, native and you name it. 
I found the perfect seat on a wall in the centre if town, and stand up, when people start filling the road in front of me. 

At five, I kind of seen enough, it darkens suspectedly fast, and they start all over again. I make it back to the car, just as the sky opens. I pass parked cars all the way home, and they continues further out the main road. So does the music from the carnival, as we can hear it at home. And the rain is persistent as well. Well, both rain and music stops after eight.

I meet a lot of French speaking people here: Frenchmen, Swiss, Belgium and Canadians. All think French is the most common language in the world. Well, after English, Mandarin, Hindi and Spanish. But they sure use it a lot!  Highlights     All photos

Day 14. It kind of a spare day, and I start it at eight, towards the Didier falls, mainly to see the nature around them. There are two falls and a fountain, way out in the wild, bye each own little trail. 

It does take me quite some time getting there. I chose the tiny mountain roads, and eventually end at a familiar staircase. Back through Fort-de-France, but here are traffic jams.  

I find the Didier Fountain, where drinking water from far away are treated. I find a little trail, following one of the rivers, deep in to the rainforest. It start to drizzle on my way out, but I do the Didier Fall 1 anyway. It is a challenging track, except from the long tunnel. It is a nice little fall, way out in a great but wet rainforest. 

I skip the other fall, and head to another jungle, less than ten kilometres away: Fort-de-France. I had hoped to skip the rain at the seaside, but it is the other way around. Some people actually pull over, and the lakes on the road are deep. 

I find a free space for the car at the edge of the old town. I just have to cross the river, and I’m at the large market. But I am in no hurry to leave the shelter of the car. Two tiny bananas and three chocolate biscuits later, it clears up, and I aim for the market.
I have a long chat with a shopkeeper, but I don't buy anything. Then I just walk quite aimlessly around the old town. I meet the French hairdresser who stayed at the hostel last week, and catch-up with each-others adventures. 

Passed noon, I get peckish, and back-trace three women with their banquettes. I end up at a nice place at the seaside. While I’m here, might as well see the port, before I dive into the old town again. A intense shower passes while I eat, but it is sunny, when I’m done. 

I meet another of the French girls I shared bedroom with last week, and hear about her adventures. 
The rain returns, and I find a little souvenir: A painted wooden fish. Another panderia offers shelter, coffee and pain chocolate.

Then I work my way through the old city in a rather effective way. I have been looking for a rain-shade for my glasses and a belt-bag, just like those I left at home. Finally, I find both in the same shop. My head is just a bit too large, and I find a strop in a tailor’s shop. Here are, by the way, a lot of carnival-dress shops. Some items are surely kinky, most so colourful. 

I meet a Belgium girl, I chatted with at the carnival, and we continue over a cup of coffee. It seems like the shops closes around five, and I find my way home, by the small mountain roads. One crossing in the river, another terminates again in a private lot. But it is a real nice drive.  Highlights     All photos

Day 15: It is a short day, before I head on. I just drive into Fort-de-France, as the airport is close by. I must admit, it is hard to find new angles, but the morning sun helps. I find some sowing needles to replace the one which renegaded last night, as I expanded my rain-shade. 

It might be because everyone is on-line on their phones all the time, but besides from the hostel, I have seen no-one offering Wi-Fi.  

I just walk aimlessly around until eleven, then find the car rental company, close to the airport. As expected, they have no complains. Well, I have paid €35 to get it cleaned, in advance, and it sure needs it.

I have two and a half hour for lunch, rapping up the island and prepare for the next, which is fine.  Highlights     All photos

Martinique have been such a great experience, with great AND accessible nature, smiling people and great weather. I might even consider returning one day, despite the long flight. 

I have driven 1376 kilometres and made 3630 photos, which indicates: I had a good time. Had the sun been more cooperative, I would have had way more photos.
I have spend €1897, which is -1% from my estimate. The flight was shared with my next target: Guadeloupe.