GENERAL INFO (Jump to Diary)Martinique is an island in the Lesser Antilles of the West Indies, in the eastern Caribbean Sea. A part of the French West Indies, Martinique is an overseas department and region and a single territorial collectivity of the French Republic. It is a part of the European Union. Martinique has a land area of 1,128 square kilometres, oval, roughly 70 times 30 kilometres. The north of the island is especially mountainous. It
features four ensembles of pitons; volcanoes and mornes;
mountains. The highest point is the volcano of Mount Pelee at 1,397 meters.
The south is more easily traversed, though it still features impressive
geographic features. It have a population of 349,925 citizens, of which all speaks both French and Martinican Creole - both are useless to me. 86% are Catholic, 5,6% Protestants, 0,5% Muslims, 0,3% Hindi and the rest are non religious. The history
- short: The island was occupied first by Central American Arawaks, from
the 1st century AD and the Caribs came from the Venezuelan coast around the
11th century. Christopher Columbus passed in 1493, and landed in 1502. The
French started settlement in 1635, not appreciated by the Indigenous Kalinago, but eventually, they were neutralised.Flora: The northern end of the island catches most of the rainfall and is heavily forested, featuring species such as bamboo, mahogany ,
rosewood and West Indian locust. The south is drier and dominated by
savannah-like brush, including cacti, Copaiba balsam, logwood and acacia.I am not sure which caudiciforms I can be lucky to stumble over, but I might find Arracacia xanthorrhiza, Blechnum occidentale, Ceratosanthes tuberosa, Cnidoscolus chayamansa, Curcuma longa, Dioscorea cayenensis, Doyerea emetocathartica, Euphorbia hypericifolia, Euphorbia petiolaris, Macfadyena unguis-cat, and Talinum paniculatum. Fauna: Anole lizards, which I love,
are numerous,
and fer-de-lance snakes or Martinique Lancehead; Bothrops lanceolatus, which is one of the few animals I fear, are native to
the island. Endemic reptiles also include the Martinique Racer; Erythrolamprus cursor, the
Martinique Threadsnake; Tetracheilostoma bilineatum, the Martinique
Anole; Anolis roquet, the Lesser Martinique Skink; Capitellum
metallicum, the Greater Martinique Skink; Mabuya mabouya, and
some un-described dwarf geckos.I would like to see the Martinique Volcano Frog; Allobates chalcopis, which is an endemic poison frog, although a bit dull in appearance. Besides from the introduced mammals species, here are several native species of bats.
DIARY
I get to buy a cup of coffee, while I wait for the shuttle to bring me to my car. It
starts to
rain heavily for ten minutes, and then I stock some
food and water at a mall in Le Robert, The tiny hostel only got five beds, and I get the single one. Frequently showers hit the area, and the night is full of the voices of cicadas, toads and frogs. I spent the evening cooking, then chatting with the German woman, who have travelled quite some by boat. Then I call it a day, after 22 hours on the move, at midnight.
Then I follow the coast north, through banana plantations, great looking real fertile forests, over huge hills and over numerous rivers. Here are a few tiny towns and some real great looking coves.
I reach the entrance for Gorges de la Falaise,
The location along a green gorge with a river is fantastic. However, the
short guided tour from the parking lot to the shop, is a real disappointment
- and in French. I don't buy tokens for tasting, and I can't see the
distillery, nor Further out along the beautiful coastal-road, I reach the little fishing town of Grand-Riviere. Some huge waves hit the harbour. I make a stroll in the spray, and see some brown pelicans. A bit further out, the black beach of La Place de Sinai is found. A few locals enjoy the water, while I do with the views to the beach, waves and cliffs. Here are a few tiny anoles and a lot of black and bluish sand.
Near the peak of Mont Pelee, I get a coffee, while I wait for the weather to improve. It is real windy, a bit misty, and hard to tell, if the next will be sun or rain. In the end, I decide to return another day. The trails in Martinique are general not made for rain, as they turn into real slippery muddy creeks.
I
chose the little central mountain
road; D1
home, and it is fabulous! The only reason I make it home at five is: There
is nearly
I make coffee, backup photos and enjoy the views, while I listen to the
birds. I have seen the north-eastern part of the island, but I will be
back.
Day The day is set off for exploring the south-western peninsula. It is an hours drive to the first site - and then some. The traffic grind to a nearly hold, five kilometres outside Fort-de-France. I find an alternative little road through the mountains, and it is a treat. It might not be faster, but the views are great.
The
long, one lane road to Anse Noire, with its black sand and blue water,
is where all the tourists are, it seems. I turn around near the beach, Next planned stop is along the coast as well: Les Anses d'Arlet, another tourist favour. As expected, I'm too early for the classic photo of the town from the pier, but here are many other interesting motives. Despite the tourism, it seems so authentic and unspoiled. Fishing boats, charming shacks and huts, alleys and the spotless beach.
I head further on along the western coast, and make a breath stop in a little fishing village.
A bit out in the sea, Le Rocher du Diamant
is
Further along the coast, Memorial de l'Anse Caffard
is found, with its
sculptures. They are fare from as impressive, as I had expected. Just
some
white-painted concrete, about human height. The blue
sea, on the other I set the GPS for the town of Trois-Rivieres, making the circle of the peninsular finish. I stop at a few of the palm-lined beaches and then at Trois Rivieres. It is yet another distillery, and I get to see a tiny bit. A new windmill model, some old wooden tanks and some new tanks in stainless steel.
A bit further on, The Blue
Pearl Beach is found. I park at the river-mouth, and see the fishing Then I set the GPS for the huge mountainlake La Manzo. It is a fairly new dammed lake, overfilled and hard to get to. Then I head home through the mountains by some small roads.
I'm home at four, but I have had sun enough for one day, by now. I chat with
yet another Freshman. He is hitching boats in the Caribbean,
The snoring French man is thankfully exchanged with a French woman, visiting
her daughter.
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