LA GOMERA (E)  DIARY  5

               From Diary 4.
5/11 2025. Day 9. It starts out as a windy morning, and I hope is calms down, or I'm going places, where it has. The target for the day is the southern part of the central slopes.
The wind has gone, when I start exploring, but piles of seeds have gathered on my porch.

Another tour up the familiar roads, and down one of the other three familiar - and only roads.
My first planned stop is on the side of the 1273 meter high Montaña de los Ramones. The views are great, but the ancient, lichen-overgrown rocks and the sparse vegetation is a real treat. I have not seen this environment on this island, and it is quite undisturbed. Well, except from the new road, which they still under construction.

The surrounding landscape is dominated by yellow grassland and only the dry artichokes sticks out. A bit higher up, it is agaves and palms.

I just pass El Negrin for another viewpoint, which is nothing special. Further down, El Drago is found, made up by threes farm houses. Back to the Arguayoda, and this little, but new road is treat. It winds it way down the yellow grass and red boulders, mainly on the ridge.
The views are huge along this little road. Some areas and gorges are wild, some are endless slopes, covered in yellow grass and lines of rocks. In the old days, this must have been a real populated area.

Today, Arguayoda is just a nice little settlement, on the cliffs. I do the loop, and it is the expected mix of ruins and leisure houses along with a few natives. The surroundings fields are barren, with the few plants the goats can't stand.

Shops are scares, and I figure, I better find brunch bye now. It seems like the nearest place to do so, is less than two kilometres away, in La Dama - as the raven fly. The shortest drive is 14 kilometres to Alajeró. Well, the first ten is just to get back to the main road.

I do a breath photo-stop at Mirador de Alajeró, then into the town, which seems cosy. Larger than many others, not many shops (one?) but hens and dogs. Again this strange mix of ruins, locals and cosy vacation houses. Lines of recent new ones have their tiny front gardens filled with mainly potatoes, and people sure look local.

I passed my remaining sights, and turn back to see Drago de Agalán, outside the settlement. Well, three houses who don’t like visitors. We have to park way up, along the main road, and walk back pass them.

The rough stone trail starts at around 1000 meters height, and wind it’s way down the gorge, to around 500. It does become more and more fertile, and the agaves and Opuntias looks better.
Here was once grown barley and wheat, on the endless terraces, now it just a few, un-harvested almond trees. I try a single, and it is real dry.

Strangely enough, this relatively old island only host a few ancient dragonblood trees. They are estimated to be several thousand years old, and do bear fruits.
Drago de Agalán is a great looking specimen, well fenced in. The tour down here was great, the one up is real hard, and a waste of a clean T-shirt. The breeze from below feels like a suicidal hairdryer.

I am parked by the Imada road, and head there to see the village with the 16’th hundred church. The entire settlement is found on a steep mountain side, but the gardens are lush, the houses nice.

I do a loop in the tiny fields with almond trees and potatoes, then a pit-stop at the local bar for coffee and a almond cupcake. Somehow, they have found the only location in the village, without an astonishing view.

I feel a bit off, might caused by dehydration, and I differently miss sunglasses. I just sip my Americano and relax in the shadows, while I plan the last days.
Another loop through the settlement reveals the old church, looking like a garage for a Fiat 500, build in the ‘60’ies, not the 1600 building I had expected. But the rest of the buildings and the entire valley is a real treat.

At three, I set the GPS for the nearest gas station on the way home, and just enjoy the drive, as it is bye a lot of minor roads. I just have to stop at Mirador de Igualero, with the yellow church and the view, too big to grasp.

When I finally reach the gas station outside Chipude, it doesn’t work. Someone speaking Spanish have been trying desperately for quite some time. Bit of a bummer, as gas stations are scars: There are six on the entire island.

It is getting late, and I just sneak home, with an unusually light right foot. And re-plan tomorrow, starting with the nearest gas station. The sun have vanished when I get home, and I start working right away. The sunset is not the most impressive, but still 360 degrees.
The highlights from Day 9. The lot; Day 9.

6/11. Day 10. Due to the lack of gasoline and the spare time, I just start the day in pleasant Vallehermoso. The top of the island is covered in clouds, and it drizzle a bit, at the central mountains. I get the car filled in Vallehermoso, which is grey and windy too. And as it is below 200 meters, and I doubt, I find anything better for now. I might as well have another look in this little cosy city.

Despite it is only nine, parking cause a problem, but everyone is still home, I guess.
I do the higher alleys by foot, enjoying a great view over the central part. Then the riversides and the central part. And I still fail to figure how the locals buy clothes. One suggested Tenerife, and with the ferry-discount for residents, it might actually be the case.

It is still cloudy and a bit if a breeze, and the 20C does feels a bit chill. A bit passed ten, I head for subtropical Las Hoyetas.
It is a great drive on GM-1, in through the green mountains, despite the lack of sun. At first, the steep sides are covered in bushes and herbs, then at higher altitude, it becomes low forest. Back down, it turns real rough and really beautiful. The deep blue sea appears in glimpses, when it allies with the giant gorge. Despite the lack of sun, I just have to make quite some stops and photos.

Eventually, Las Hoyetas starts. It around four kilometres of scatted town, mixed with fields, bedrock and the dry riverbed. I see one part at the time, and drive to the next.
The sun only reveal itself in short and small spots.

Here, they actually have a shop, selling dresses, pans and T-shirts. Anything warmer is only for small children. It must be a sign, I pass the panaderia & dulceria at noon, but the cake is disappointing.

I slowly work my way up from the disappointing beach. Here are no lack of bars and restaurants, several banks, two small supermarkets, some small hotels, an old-school post-office and even a football stadium, but little else.

My plan was to hit the high mountain now, but they are covered in real dark clouds. Plan B is the last city; San Sebastián, located by the coast. It is another great drive, and just as I enters the city, the sum become steady. But with a tiny bit of wind-tears most of the time.

It was Sunday, when I visited last, and the shops were closed. They still are, as it is siesta from 13-17;30. Well, some are actually open, and they leave the old houses outside, and I got photos to prove.

I find the old part of town around the church, and do a rather systematic walk, to locate a light fleece-jacket. I end up with a long-sleeved T-shirt, but that will do. I visit several dulcerias, but only to make photos of the great looking cakes. I am pretty sure, I will be disappointed anyway.

I make a loop around the harbour and the old tower, and then I head home. It is straight across the island, up through the clouds and out again, on the other side. I'm not a city-boy, but today have not been bad at all. I have avoided the cold and wet mountains, but still seen a lot. The highlights from Day 10. The lot from Day 10.

               And then into the last page; Diary 6.