From Diary 1.
30. Day 3. I head back south, just to explore the dry area around the
airport. It is well over an hour’s drive to my first sight, but despite the
lack of sun, it is great. Then the sun is clear, but only on the other side
of the mountains. A giant rainbow show up down on the coast, then I cross
the ridge and meet the sun - face on.
I
reach the other side at 800 meters, and then dive into the forest tunnel.
Mirador de Mocanillo don’t really display anything special. It seems
like the area get a lot of dew. The tree-stems are covered in mosses and
lichens, and even the road is wet. I find a sunny spot at nine, and eat the
bread I bought yesterday for breakfast.
When I get down to 1300 meters in the southern side, it turns into
grassland. I do a hike at 1100 meters, on the other side from Ermita
de
El Paso, and despite the lack of sun, it is great. Here are several
interesting plants, and I scars up a flock of partridges, and I see several
around this in clima-zone.
Then pass endless stone walls, on the barren slopes, pass the airport and
into the tourist town of Santiago and it’s beach. It is a crappy
gravel road the last part, and no parking
lot. There is no access to the
rocky water front, way below. It seems to be another Covid19
victim, intended to be a tourist compound, like a few others around
Santiago.
I head down town to have a stroll and find lunch. It is a tiny town, only
the beach front and one half alley behind. The beach is wide, but made up by
fist-sized stones. I find my car dealer, and tell him, I have blinded the
camera.
He fully understands. I then help two blokes unloading gypsum
plasterboards from a lorry.
A bit
further along the coast, Playa del Medio is found. The one lane road passes
a little farm and huge bone-dry mountain sides, which once were farmed. Now
only the endless walls and a few native plants remains.
I follow the narrow remains of an aqueduct to an outcrop at the sea. Quite
some interesting plants and a nice view.
Then down to Playa del Medio, where a few divers are found. I grab my
lunch, and find a sunny spot to enjoy it along with the sea-view and a
single seagull.
The
variety
of lave is large, and I gather some for a photo. I also find some limpet,
and when I realise; they are shaped just like the island, one might become
my souvenir from here.
I boot up, and do the hike to Playa de Chinguarime, to see
Barranco de Chinguarime. Well, despite the blue colour on the map, it is
just yet another dry
ravine.
At
one o’clock, I’ve see the sights if the day, but get a head start on some
other sights, found along the road home. The first is
Targa a little
scattered village. Just as I’m about to e nter the area, it starts to rain.
To judge by the succulents, it is a first in a real long time. It is a real
cosy settlement, and I just have to return on a sunny day.
As I head onwards to the next site, which includes a hike, the drizzle
intensifies, and I figure; the other side of the island will be more
suitable for me.
I
try La Laguna Grande's El Contadero for another
hike. The fog joins in
higher up, but I have to stop at two minor peaks, to enjoy both plants,
lichen and views.
It keep raining on the big top, and I seek lower ground on the northern
side. I stop breathily at a forest, to enjoy the moss-overgrown stems.
When I pass 1000 meters, the sun is back, so are the astonishing views.
I
almost
pass home, on my way to little Arguamul. It is a seven kilometres,
one lane road, cut into the coastal cliffs. The views are endlessly and
breathtaking.
Here is a bit fertile, and they have small gardens and palms for their sap,
and I actually see some goats.
Most buildings in the little settlement are ancient and abandoned, but here
are surely romantic. The sea is close, but 2600 meters hiking
away.
I save Guillama, the seaside settlement, for another sunny day, and head
homewards at four o'clock. I get to enjoy a bit of sun and coffee, before I start
with the 333 photos and diary.
The sunset is a bit average - for a Canarie one, that is. If it wasn't for
the refrigerator, here would be absolutely quiet.
The
highlights from Day 3. The
lot from Day3.
31 .
Day 4. It is a busy day, except the sights are located quite close to
each other. It is on the others side of the central highland, at the
north-eastern coast.
I start chasing down some morning sun, and sit and warm-up, along with the
lizards. Well, the night stayed at 20C, and neither of are actually cold,
but it is still nice.
The first part is bye
familiar roads, but they still look great. Here are hardly any traffic
before
ten, and I just enjoy the drive.
I stop several times, once at Mirador de Tajaque, overseeing
Benchijigua; the central crater.
On the other side of the wall, El Bailadero is even better
looking.
The
plants
on the wall along the road, looks like the perfect botanical garden. The
dandelions reach two meters around here, while the tree branches are
completely covered
in mosses, here at 1000 meters height.
Right around the corner, Mirador de El Rejo offers yet another
astonishing view, both to mountains, farms and the distant sea.
Eventually,
after way too many photos, I make it to Hermigua - or at least the
lookout for it. It is a cosy town, scattered around on an eastern slope,
with lush farmland in the valley, and terraces up the mountain sides. I am
so impressed by the work ancient farmers have put into building these
terraces, and present day's farmers can't be bothered using them. I need
quite some time, absorbing the view.
While
I do a bit of a detour up a little populated canyon, the sun starts to be a
bit unpredictable, which the photos suffer from. I park in the upper part of
the main town, and see the rather disappointing Convento
de Santo Dominigo. Then a long stroll in the upper main street, with
views to the gardens and older buildings.
I
do another stroll in the central part too, with banks, cafes, farms and the
church, which surprisingly enough is open.
Then I head down to the lower parts, with a supermarket and a gas station.
On this island, you use them, when you see them.
At
the coastal cliffs,
Mirador del Pueblo offers a great view to the town, the valley with
crops, the mountains, the beach and Tenerife with Teide. It
is a stoney beach, and I see enough from up here, although the rainbow
coloured surf is interesting.
A
pearl-string of entreating lookouts leads along the coast to Agulo, a
18th-century town. Well, the first part
with the bank, bars and a few tourists is not that old. I do a longer
walk,
and eventually find the old part, and square with the municipal and church.
But it somehow lack charm and life in general.
I head on towards Centro de
Visitantes Juego de Bolas and their botanical garden. It up and inland
through a yet another pearl-string of
viewpoints, all the way up to 750 meters.
The museum is a real treat, plenty of colourful
illustrations, little
text. The botanical garden a real disappointment. Just the local and
invasive dry-area-plants, grown in a rich forest-soil, not suited for them
at all.
The
last planned site is
Mirador de Abrante, a glass-box outlook. The sun have vanished, but it
is close bye, and I give it a chance. The
greasy glass-box fail to amuse me, but the entire area is red vulcanite
clay, and the little coastal town of Abrante, 625 meters
down, get
some sun. Tenerife with Teide is clear too.
The GPS estate; we can
be home 16;15. If there is a lot of sun, it will be later. But it is first
through a laurel tunnel, and then, when
I finally get out, by familiar
roads. But I get to use the sixth gear a lot. And I am rewarded with coffee
in the sun on my porch, with both mountain and sea views.
The
highlights from Day 4. The
lot; Day 4.
Then I continue in Diary 3. |