GENERAL INFO (Jump to Diary)
Lanzarote is a Spanish island, the easternmost of the Canary Islands in the
Atlantic Ocean, 125 kilometres
off the north coast of Africa. It covering 845.92 square kilometres,
measuring 60 times 25 kilometres, and the highest peak is Peñas del Chache,
rising to 670 metres. The name
originates after the Genoese navigator Lancelotto Malocello.
It is the home to 158,798 inhabitants, but have quite some unspoiled nature
- as it is bone dry: A hot desert climate. The island was declared a
biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 1993.
Lanzarote is believed to have been the first Canary Island to be settled.
The Phoenicians may have visited
or settled there, though no material
evidence survives. In 1336, a ship arrived from Lisbon under the guidance of
Genoese navigator Lancelotto Malocello, who used the alias "Lanzarote da
Framqua". A fort was later built in the area of Montaña de Guanapay near
today's Teguise.
The flora
counts five hundred different species on the island, of which 17
species are endemic. My main interest: Caudiciforms might count
Astydamia latifolia,
Atriplex halimus,
Bryonia verrucosa,
Citrullus colocynthis,
Dioscorea communis,
Dipcadi serotinum,
Dracaena draco,
Ecballium elaterium,
Euphorbia balsamifera,
Ferraria crispa,
Ficaria verna,
Kleinia neriifolia,
Muscari graecum,
Narcissus broussonetii,
Pancratium maritimum,
Scilla latifolia,
Semele androgyna,
Urginea maritima,
Withania aristata
and
Umbilicus heylandianus.
The
fauna is made up by native bats
and the mammals which accompanied humans like rats, dogs, cats, squerrels
and dromedaries. The endemic blind Munidopsis polymorpha crabs found
in the Jameos del Agua lagoon could be interesting to see. Here are 40
species of birds, along with some reptilians: The East Canary gecko or
Canary wall gecko; Tarentola angustimentalis, The
Mediterranean house
gecko, Hemidactylus turcicus, the Atlantic lizard; Gallotia
atlantica and the Haria Lizard; Gacerta atlantica might be
spotted here.
DIARY
2/11 2024.
A morning flight saves me from the rain that has killed 237 people in
Valencia, and is now coming to Barcelona. I
quickly find my car at the airport at eleven and drive straight to the small
town of Haria, where I reach the Saturday market.
It is a nice drive through a truly dry landscape, where small volcanoes
protrude from the gravel plain. At this time of year, it seems strange that
many of the slopes have extensive terraces. It is a bit difficult to find a
parking space, but I manage to squeeze the car onto a very loose gravel
slope. Maybe I should have taken out that insurance?
The
Haria market may be a bit touristy, but it hold some beautiful handmade
things in wood, clay, fabric, leather and metal that they sell, all handmade
and really beautiful. However, I start with a latte and a large piece of
apple pie, as it is lunchtime – at least in Barcelona.
I make a long walk in the overgrown village, which is truly beautiful with
its white square houses with green woodwork, palm trees and small
vineyards. I find water and dinner at the small grocery store, and head on.
A completely black lava gravel field with hundreds of Kleinia
neriifolia lures me out of the car. Here are also a few Asparagus
nesiotes and an Launaea arborescens and a few Euphorbia
balsamifera. All are really in drought dormancy.
In addition to the
black lava, there are thousands of white snail shells. They must originate
from endless generations.
The
next stop is out on the coast, where Arrieta was once a small fishing
village. Now it has lost some of its soul to tourism. But here there are
still white box-shaped houses with blue woodwork and a beautiful coast with
deep blue water. I trudge a long walk, and strengthen myself with a bun with
egg, cheese and potato.
On
the slope inland, there are the previously mentioned plants as well as
many of the umbrella-shaped Euphorbia balsamifera. I am still
in Spain, but the short three-hour flight has brought me to a completely
different world.
Jardin de Cactus is supposed to be an artistic cactus garden, which I
fear is a bit suspicious, but it must be seen, despite the fact that I am
not in the Americas. In fact, cactus dominates the roadsides and gardens.
And it is definitely worth the eight euros. It looks like a volcanic crater,
tastefully planted with iconic cacti, Euphorbias and other succulents and
even some caudiciforms. It is perfectly maintained, and
the plants look fantastic against the dark lava gravel as a backdrop. I make
way too many photos
Then I take the dirt road out to Ensenada Martin Morales – or at
least the first ten kilometres of the eleven, which end in a stone
embankment and a Privado sign. Back again, and then it darkens. I find my
new home at five o'clock. A really cosy little hostel in an old villa.
Miquel and Cesar really know how to make their guests feel welcome. Day's
highlights.
3/10.
11
hours of sleep, and then I'm fully charged again. I drive into the middle of
the island to see Lagomar, where people lived in caves. It's
obviously a big attraction, but they don't open for another two hours. I
think I'll save the ten euros.
I'm in the central part of the island, and I'm botanizing on a typical
slope. The largest and most dominant plant is light green lichen. In the
ravines there are a few known from yesterday.
Next
stop
is Teguise, which is the oldest existing town on the island. They
have a huge Sunday market, and the centre is closed to cars. But it's still
pretty deserted here, and I easily find a place to park. They're slowly
building up the stalls with African leather goods, colourful clothes,
mass-produced jewellery, Chinese "branded goods" and a wide selection of
beautiful crafts. And of course, a lot of food stalls, with world
specialties. I grab a latte, and then see the
old part of Teguise, which has
its share of stalls. I finish with the now active Mercadillo
de Teguise, but without buying anything. Finally, I find a cafe with
chairs in the sun. After all, it is only 24C, and with a fresh breeze.
Then I find my way over to the west coast, but I have to stop at the sand
dunes. There are not many plants here, but the ones that are, there are
exciting. The GPS knows some small gravel roads, and I get to see some
nature – albeit fairly dry.
Then
I reach La Caleta de Famera. It is a small cosy town, with a
view of the rocks by the sea. I find a “popcorn beach” and that is
really
descriptive. There are also a few worn snail shells, and lots of black lava.
A walk through the town reveals a number of restaurants and surf shops, in
the so typical white boxes. I finish again with a latte and a really leaky
flute with, among other things, eggplant, which is treated like lightly
smoked salted meat. I check the news, and the rain in Spain continues to
make headlines along with the upcoming American elections. Over 2,000
Spaniards are missing, and over 50,000 cars have been washed away.
Good thing
I'm out here on the dry island, but I really feel sorry for those Spaniels,
hit by the rain.
I've prepared a trip around La Santa, El Cuchillo and Masdache,
just to see the area. It's first along the central part of the north coast.
I stop on a sandy plain, where large areas are completely covered with white
land snail shells. Close by, this sandy desert seems ploughed???
I find
the
beach in Caleta de Caballo, where there is a new plant, a bit like
Kalanchoe. The large lagoon at Los Risquetes is also tempting,
with the green salt plants. Here are some heavers and shorebirds
Apart from the small, chubby and apparently water-scared fishing boats,
La Santa doesn't really have anything exciting to offer.
I turn inland towards El Cuchillo. Here, if possible, it is even
drier, but funnily enough there are also fields. The brown lava stones have been
removed or used for walls, and the fields are filled with fine black lava
gravel. They must be irrigated, when they are cultivated.
I resist the temptation of an 18 kilometre gravel road to Masdache, and
instead follow the somewhat levelled asphalt road. In fact, all the asphalt
roads on the island are in really good condition, most of them brand new.
I pass
through La Gunetta, which seems to be an older town, and
devoid of tourists, so I go for a walk. Funnily enough, I pass the
pandaria,
where I feel like I have to stop by the town to buy a latte and a
coconut-top.
The last planned stop of the day is Masdache, just for the sake of the trip.
I take a smaller road, and come through La Vagueta, where there are
small vineyards. Then follows a large area of relatively new lava. It is
almost black, where the soil that covers it is light green. A single species
of succulent is abundant in the otherwise barren area. It continues
all the
way to Masdache. Then there are endless vineyards, almost all the way
to the south coast. I drive on small roads, many of which are only gravel. I
end up in the large tourist
town of Puerto del Carmen, and just check out the harbour. Then I
just drive home along the coastal road, past the airport. I do some
breakfast shopping, and start looking at today's 333 photos. Not that I can
really see anything on my phone.
Day's
highlights.
Time for Diary 2. |