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 LANZAROTE
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 GENERAL INFO (Jump to Diary)
Lanzarote is a Spanish island, the easternmost of the Canary Islands in the Atlantic Ocean, 125 kilometres off the north coast of Africa. It covering 845.92 square kilometres, measuring 60 times 25 kilometres, and the highest peak is Peñas del Chache, rising to 670 metres. 
The name originates after the Genoese navigator Lancelotto Malocello.
It is the home to 158,798 inhabitants, but have quite some unspoiled nature - as it is bone dry: A hot desert climate. The island was declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 1993.
Lanzarote is believed to have been the first Canary Island to be settled. The Phoenicians may have visited or settled there, though no material evidence survives. In 1336, a ship arrived from Lisbon under the guidance of Genoese navigator Lancelotto Malocello, who used the alias "Lanzarote da Framqua". A fort was later built in the area of Montaña de Guanapay near today's Teguise.
The flora counts five hundred different species on the island, of which 17 species are endemic. My main interest: Caudiciforms might count Astydamia latifolia, Atriplex halimus, Bryonia verrucosa, Citrullus colocynthis, Dioscorea communis, Dipcadi serotinum, Dracaena draco, Ecballium elaterium, Euphorbia balsamifera, Ferraria crispa, Ficaria verna, Kleinia neriifolia, Muscari graecum, Narcissus broussonetii, Pancratium maritimum, Scilla latifolia, Semele androgyna, Urginea maritima, Withania aristata and Umbilicus heylandianus.
The fauna is made up by native bats and the mammals which accompanied humans like rats, dogs, cats, squerrels and dromedaries. The endemic blind Munidopsis polymorpha crabs found in the Jameos del Agua lagoon could be interesting to see. Here are 40 species of birds, along with some reptilians: The East Canary gecko or Canary wall gecko; Tarentola angustimentalis, The Mediterranean house gecko, Hemidactylus turcicus, the Atlantic lizard; Gallotia atlantica and the Haria Lizard; Gacerta atlantica might be spotted here.

DIARY
2/11 2024. A morning flight saves me from the rain that has killed 237 people in Valencia, and is now coming to Barcelona. I quickly find my car at the airport at eleven and drive straight to the small town of Haria, where I reach the Saturday market.
It is a nice drive through a truly dry landscape, where small volcanoes protrude from the gravel plain. At this time of year, it seems strange that many of the slopes have extensive terraces. It is a bit
difficult to find a parking space, but I manage to squeeze the car onto a very loose gravel slope. Maybe I should have taken out that insurance?
The
Haria market may be a bit touristy, but it hold some beautiful handmade things in wood, clay, fabric, leather and metal that they sell, all handmade and really beautiful. However, I start with a latte and a large piece of apple pie, as it is lunchtime – at least in Barcelona.
I make a long walk in the overgrown village, which is truly beautiful with its white square houses with green woodwork, palm trees and small vineyards. I find water and dinner at the small grocery store, and head on.
A completely black lava gravel field with hundreds of Kleinia neriifolia lures me out of the car. Here are also a few Asparagus nesiotes and an Launaea arborescens and a few Euphorbia balsamifera. All are really in drought dormancy. In addition to the black lava, there are thousands of white snail shells. They must originate from endless generations.
The next stop is out on the coast, where Arrieta was once a small fishing village. Now it has lost some of its soul to tourism. But here there are still white box-shaped houses with blue woodwork and a beautiful coast with deep blue water. I trudge a long walk, and strengthen myself with a bun with egg, cheese and potato.
On the slope inland, there are the previously mentioned plants as well as many of the umbrella-shaped Euphorbia balsamifera. I am still in Spain, but the short three-hour flight has brought me to a completely different world.
Jardin de Cactus is supposed to be an artistic cactus garden, which I fear is a bit suspicious, but it must be seen, despite the fact that I am not in the Americas. In fact, cactus dominates the roadsides and gardens. And it is definitely worth the eight euros. It looks like a volcanic crater, tastefully planted with iconic cacti, Euphorbias and other succulents and even some caudiciforms. It is perfectly maintained, and the plants look fantastic against the dark lava gravel as a backdrop. I make way too many photos
Then I take the dirt road out to Ensenada Martin Morales – or at least the first ten kilometres of the eleven, which end in a stone embankment and a Privado sign. Back again, and then it darkens. I find my new home at five o'clock. A really cosy little hostel in an old villa. Miquel and Cesar really know how to make their guests feel welcome.
Day's highlights.
3/10. 11 hours of sleep, and then I'm fully charged again. I drive into the middle of the island to see Lagomar, where people lived in caves. It's obviously a big attraction, but they don't open for another two hours. I think I'll save the ten euros.
I'm in the central part of the island, and I'm botanizing on a typical slope. The largest and most dominant plant is light green lichen. In the ravines there are a few known from yesterday.
Next stop is Teguise, which is the oldest existing town on the island. They have a huge Sunday market, and the centre is closed to cars. But it's still pretty deserted here, and I easily find a place to park. They're slowly building up the stalls with African leather goods, colourful clothes, mass-produced jewellery, Chinese "branded goods" and a wide selection of beautiful crafts. And of course, a lot of food stalls, with world specialties. I grab a latte, and then see the old part of Teguise, which has its share of stalls. I finish with the now active Mercadillo de Teguise, but without buying anything. Finally, I find a cafe with chairs in the sun. After all, it is only 24C, and with a fresh breeze.
Then I find my way over to the west coast, but I have to stop at the sand dunes. There are not many plants here, but the ones that are, there are exciting. The GPS knows some small gravel roads, and I get to see some nature – albeit fairly dry.
Then I reach La Caleta de Famera. It is a small cosy town, with a view of the rocks by the sea. I find a “popcorn beach” and that is really descriptive. There are also a few worn snail shells, and lots of black lava. A walk through the town reveals a number of restaurants and surf shops, in the so typical white boxes. I finish again with a latte and a really leaky flute with, among other things, eggplant, which is treated like lightly smoked salted meat. I check the news, and the rain in Spain continues to make headlines along with the upcoming American elections. Over 2,000 Spaniards are missing, and over 50,000 cars have been washed away.
Good thing I'm out here on the dry island, but I really feel sorry for those Spaniels, hit by the rain.
I've prepared a trip around La Santa, El Cuchillo and Masdache, just to see the area. It's first along the central part of the north coast. I stop on a sandy plain, where large areas are completely covered with white land snail shells. Close by, this sandy desert seems ploughed???
I find the beach in Caleta de Caballo, where there is a new plant, a bit like Kalanchoe. The large lagoon at Los Risquetes is also tempting, with the green salt plants. Here are some heavers and shorebirds
Apart from the small, chubby and apparently water-scared fishing boats, La Santa doesn't really have anything exciting to offer.
I turn inland towards El Cuchillo. Here, if possible, it is even drier, but funnily enough there are also fields. The brown lava stones have been removed or used for walls, and the fields are filled with fine black lava gravel. They must be irrigated, when they are cultivated.
I resist the temptation of an 18 kilometre gravel road to Masdache, and instead follow the somewhat levelled asphalt road. In fact, all the asphalt roads on the island are in really good condition, most of them brand new.
I pass through La Gunetta, which seems to be an older town, and devoid of tourists, so I go for a walk. Funnily enough, I pass the pandaria, where I feel like I have to stop by the town to buy a latte and a coconut-top.
The last planned stop of the day is Masdache, just for the sake of the trip. I take a smaller road, and come through La Vagueta, where there are small vineyards. Then follows a large area of ​​relatively new lava. It is almost black, where the soil that covers it is light green. A single species of succulent is abundant in the otherwise barren area. It continues all the way to Masdache. Then there are endless vineyards, almost all the way to the south coast. I drive on small roads, many of which are only gravel. I end up in the large tourist town of Puerto del Carmen, and just check out the harbour. Then I just drive home along the coastal road, past the airport. I do some breakfast shopping, and start looking at today's 333 photos. Not that I can really see anything on my phone.  Day's highlights.              
               Time for Diary 2.

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