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LANZAROTE
   DIARY  2

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Diary 1  2  3  4 

               From Diary 1.
4/10. I start early, but morning traffic is extremely limited. I pass many gravel volcanoes and large barren lava plains. I cross the island, and come out to the sea at the salt pans of Las Salinas. Brown muddy lakes and small white mountains of salt, out on a small coastal plain.
Then I find Los Hervideros, where there are some caves. You walk on top of them, and look down at the big swells that break down in them. These are big swells come in and meet basalt and porous lava. The recommendation was to be here early, and I have them to myself. On the other side, the parking lot is bigger than the cave area.
Nearby I find a small lagoon: (not so-) Green Pond. It lies next to the black beach; Playa Montana Bermeja at the foot of the volcano.
I trudge a little, way up the steep side, to see the drought-stricken Euphorbia balsamifera.
The next stop is at a small natural harbour, with some small dinghies on the beach.
A little further along the coast, I find Charcos de los Clicos, which is a really green lake. Together with the white, black and red lava, it looks fantastic.
Just around the corner is the small sleepy tourist town of El Golfo. It looks more like private summer houses, some of which are very “idyllic”. I manage to find a latte and a couple of interesting gardens. Here there are also some enormous swells that meet the coast, but apparently not the choice of the surfers.
I go for a walk on the coastal cliffs, where the tidal lakes have a rich selection of fish, sea anemones, shrimps, snails, crabs and hermit crabs.
The town ends in the Parque Nasional de Timanfaya, and I follow a path along the sea. It winds through the lava, and many stretches are challenging with loose lava rocks the size of fists. I see a lizard and a fly. There are a few more plants besides from the many Euphorbia balsamifera. After three challenging but boring kilometres, the path meets a smooth gravel road. It leads through new and barren lava, in a large arc, back to El Golfo. Besides from some freshly looking lava, here are not anything real interesting.
It's passed one when I reach El Golfo, and I've definitely earned lunch. There are only fish restaurants here, but two starters: A garlic bread and some salt-boiled potatoes with two kinds of delicious dip, works fine.
I see the sights of the day far too quickly, and have to find something to spend the afternoon with. I find some points in the southwest corner, where I otherwise hadn't planned to go. With good reason, it turns out.
A huge area has country roads and nothing else. There are 20 meters of vertical cliff walls down to the foaming sea. I find, what could be a large crater a little inland, on the  GPS called Montana Roha. I find a path in a residential area, and trudge up to the edge. There really is a crater, although not that deep. I walk all the way around it, but only get up to 190 meters high. At the bottom is a bright area with the ubiquitous Euphorbia balsamifera.
The sun is low, but I have to pass the southern port. First, I drive through a tourist town, then it becomes a fairly fashionable Marina Robicon in Playa Blanca. Where I have otherwise heard French and Spanish, everyone here is English. And from that part of the population who speaks really nice English. I grab a latte in a fancy place, right on the bulwark. Then I head home, past one big volcano after another.  Day's highlights.
5/10. It is about 20 degrees warmer here, compared to Denmark, and I enjoy that. I drive up north, to see the nature. It is a beautiful trip, and it becomes more and more fertile the further north I go. But still quite dry. Many slopes have endless small walls, some with vines, others Opuntia cacti or just abandoned. Some of the larger flat and black farmed fields have Aloe vera. I do some botanizing in several places, and here are some new species, which may be native?
I find the volcano Corona and Mirador del Rio, both shrouded in fog and cool. Then, I just drive down to the small port town of Orzlla, which is mostly dominated by the ferry to Isla Graciosa. I do a few loops and find a latte and a roll with avocado, cheese and other delicious things.
The clouds in the heights lift, and I return to Malpais de la Corona, which is lava land. In the middle is the 609 meter high Vulcano Corona.
I trudge purposefully up to the top, first on a gentle slope with small walls and vines. Then it suddenly becomes steep, and enormous amounts of lichen take over. I reach the crater and enjoy the view and the nature. Here is a ranger, with whom I have a long chat. She recommends several places, one of which is new to me – I thought.
The island's lizards; Gallotia atlantica are numerous here, and they are still warming up, and I get some pictures. There are also some plants here that I have not seen before. Among them a small bulb plant and Umbilicus heylandianus.
I find my way back down, and I just need to find lunch, before the next long hike. I combine it with Mirador del Rio, which has a fancy restaurant – and an entrée of €8. I get half a flute with potato omelette and a latte for €7.50. At least, it has cleared up now, and the view is truly fantastic. The “river” is the sea between Lanzarote and La Graciosa island. From here, the island looks like a very dry sandbank with a couple of volcanoes on it. On this mountain-side, the clouds roll down over the cliff edge, which adds to the magic. Unfortunately, I am here at the same time as a busload of elderly German women, who practically line up to tell me how beautiful they find the view - in German.
The buildings themselves are fantastic. Minimalist with soft shapes on the inside, covered with the local rocks and low on the outside.
After a surprisingly long stay, I drive down to Playa del Risco – or rather, four kilometres from where I have to leave the car. I find a small road that runs along the edge of the cliff, and the view is fantastic.
The path down to Playa del Risco starts on the edge, and the first two kilometres are very steep, but with a fabulous view. Then it flattens out on the coastal plain, the vegetation more or less disappears, and I turn around.
I have another beach in mind; Playa Famara, which the ranger recommended.
I have to stop at the outskirts of Haria, where a cafe with a view of the oasis lures me in.
From here it goes uphill, even through a few pine trees at an altitude of 560 meters.
When I finally reach the Playa Famara, I recognize the sand dunes and the high cliffs. However, that should not deter me from taking another walk. The beach itself does not mean much to me, but the sand dunes with bushes and polished lava stones are beautiful.
I am home for lunch, but have a long chat with a Moroccan engineer and a girl from Bulgaria.  Day's highlights.
               Then I continue in Diary 3.

Photos   Map & Plan   Diary 1  2  3  4