From Diary 1.
4/10.
I start early, but morning traffic is extremely limited. I pass many gravel
volcanoes and large barren lava plains. I cross the island, and come out to
the sea at the salt pans of Las Salinas. Brown muddy lakes and small
white mountains of salt, out on a small coastal plain.
Then I find Los Hervideros, where there are some caves.
You walk on
top of them, and look down at the big swells that break down in them. These
are big swells come in and meet basalt and porous lava. The
recommendation was to be here early, and I have them to myself. On the other
side, the parking lot is bigger than the cave area.
Nearby I find a small lagoon: (not so-) Green Pond. It lies next to the
black beach; Playa Montana Bermeja at the foot
of the volcano.
I trudge a little, way up the steep side, to see the drought-stricken
Euphorbia balsamifera.
The next stop is at a small natural harbour, with some small dinghies on the
beach.
A little further along the coast, I find Charcos de los Clicos, which
is a really green lake. Together with the white, black and red lava, it looks
fantastic.
Just around
the corner is the small sleepy tourist town of El Golfo.
It looks more like private summer houses, some of which are very “idyllic”.
I manage to find a latte and a couple of interesting gardens. Here there are
also some enormous swells that meet the coast, but apparently not the choice
of the surfers.
I go for a walk on the coastal cliffs, where the tidal lakes have a rich
selection of fish, sea anemones, shrimps, snails, crabs and hermit crabs.
The town ends in the Parque Nasional de Timanfaya, and I follow a
path along the sea. It winds through the lava, and many stretches are
challenging with loose lava rocks the size of fists. I see a lizard and a
fly. There are a few more plants besides from the many Euphorbia balsamifera.
After three challenging but boring kilometres, the path meets a smooth
gravel road. It leads through new and barren lava, in a large arc, back to
El Golfo. Besides from some freshly looking lava, here are not anything real
interesting.
It's passed one when I reach El Golfo, and I've definitely earned lunch.
There are only fish restaurants here, but two starters: A garlic bread and
some salt-boiled potatoes with two kinds of delicious dip, works fine.
I see the sights of the day far too quickly,
and have to find something to
spend the afternoon with. I find some points in the southwest corner, where
I otherwise hadn't planned to go. With good reason, it turns out.
A
huge area has country roads and nothing else. There are 20 meters of
vertical cliff walls down to the foaming sea. I find, what could be a large
crater a little inland, on the GPS called Montana Roha. I
find a path in a residential area, and trudge up to the edge.
There really
is a crater, although not that deep. I walk all the way around it, but only
get up to 190 meters high. At the bottom is a bright area with the
ubiquitous Euphorbia balsamifera.
The
sun is low, but I have to pass the southern port. First, I drive through
a tourist town, then it becomes a fairly fashionable Marina Robicon
in Playa Blanca. Where I have otherwise heard French and Spanish, everyone
here is English. And from that part of the population who speaks really nice
English. I grab a latte in a fancy place, right on the bulwark. Then I head
home, past one big volcano after another.
Day's
highlights.
5/10.
It is about 20 degrees warmer here, compared to Denmark, and I enjoy that. I
drive up north, to see the nature. It is a beautiful trip, and it becomes
more and more fertile the further north I go. But still quite dry. Many
slopes have endless small walls, some with vines, others Opuntia
cacti or just abandoned. Some of the larger flat and black farmed fields
have Aloe vera. I do some botanizing in several places, and here are
some new species, which may be native?
I find the volcano Corona and Mirador del Rio, both shrouded in fog and
cool. Then, I just drive down to the small port town of Orzlla, which
is mostly dominated by the ferry to Isla Graciosa. I do a few loops and find
a latte and a roll with avocado, cheese and other delicious things.
The
clouds in the heights lift, and I return to Malpais de la Corona,
which is lava land. In the middle is the 609 meter high Vulcano Corona.
I trudge purposefully up to the top, first on a gentle slope with small
walls and vines. Then it suddenly becomes steep, and enormous amounts of
lichen take over. I reach the crater and enjoy the view and the nature. Here
is a ranger, with whom I have a long chat. She recommends several places,
one of which is new to me – I thought.
The island's lizards;
Gallotia atlantica are numerous here, and they are still warming up,
and I
get some pictures. There are also some plants here that I have not seen
before. Among them a small bulb plant and Umbilicus heylandianus.
I find my way back down, and I just need to find lunch, before the next long
hike. I combine it with Mirador del Rio, which has a fancy restaurant
– and an entrée of €8.
I get half a flute with potato omelette and a latte
for €7.50. At least, it has cleared up now, and the view is truly fantastic.
The “river” is the sea between Lanzarote and La Graciosa island. From here,
the island looks like a very dry sandbank with a couple of volcanoes on it. On this
mountain-side, the clouds roll down over the cliff edge, which adds to the
magic. Unfortunately, I am here at the same time as a busload of elderly
German
women, who practically line up to tell me how beautiful they find the
view - in German.
The buildings themselves are fantastic. Minimalist with soft shapes on the
inside, covered with the local rocks and low on the outside.
After a surprisingly long stay, I drive down to Playa del Risco – or rather,
four kilometres from where I have to leave the car. I find a small road that
runs along the edge of the cliff, and the view is fantastic.
The
path down to Playa del Risco starts on
the edge, and the first
two kilometres are very steep, but with a fabulous view. Then it flattens
out on the coastal plain, the vegetation more or less disappears, and I turn
around.
I have another beach in mind; Playa Famara, which the ranger recommended.
I have to stop at the outskirts of Haria, where a cafe with a view of the
oasis lures me in.
From here it goes uphill, even through a few pine trees at an altitude of
560 meters.
When I finally reach the Playa Famara, I recognize the sand dunes and
the high cliffs. However, that should not deter me from taking another walk.
The beach itself does not mean much to me, but the sand dunes with bushes
and polished lava stones are beautiful.
I am home for lunch, but have a long chat with a Moroccan engineer and a
girl from Bulgaria.
Day's
highlights.
Then I continue in Diary 3. |