French
   GUADELOUPE    DIARY  6

               From Diary 5.
Day 14. There are not many unexplored dots back on the map. The day is set off for exploring the central west-coast of Basse-Terre. 

I better be early at the real popular beach; Plage de Malendure. Despite I get here in a light drizzle at eight, it is almost impossible to find a place to park. I’m in no rush, and sit in the car for five minutes, when I find a spot. Then the sun appears long enough for me to do both beaches.

I still don’t get why this is such a popular place, people pay €1 an hour to park. Here are a lot of offers on kayaking, paddle-boarding, diving, snorkelling and other “wild adventures”. The drizzle returns and create a nice rainbow over the two small islands, out in the bay. 

A few hundred meters further up along the coast, the grey sand is exchange with rocks. I accidentally drop into a tiny bakery and sit out a shower, with a pan with chocolate and a cup of coffee. Then the sky is blue, and I make it into the coastal mountains. 

The first site is Cascade Le Saut de L'Acomat, a little bluish waterfall, at the end of a steep and rough trail, along a tiny creek. I start downriver, where the little river passes through huge boulders. 

The fall look great, passing the black bedrock under some huge plants and trees, ending in a blue pond. I leave, when it starts to drizzle. 

I actually can’t remember what the next site is about ; Le sanctuaire de Notre Dame des Larmes. It is back to the coast and then up the next gorge. It is not a forest reserve, but a religious one. Nevertheless, it has a lot of nature. A deep gorge holds a river, and I follow it upstream. It is completely unspoiled, and I kind of miss a trail. 

I see some anoles, and for a first: Freshwater snails. Way in, I meet a waterfall and then I turn uphill through the scattered bushes under large trees. After some time, I see vanilla-orchids on the trees, and they are placed there. I have seen the dry fruits on the markets, but not in culture, on this island. They seem to do great here. 

I end at a washed-away road, and follow it to a farm or factory. Then I find the road and eventually my car. 

I have not planed anything else, but head back to the baker from yesterday. I pass La Maison du Cacao, but they are fully booked. Guess the vegetarian sandwich at the baker is better for me anyway. My chicken-friend from yesterday leaves while I buy the sandwich: More to me – till it almost flying returns. 

While I’m here, I make a stroll around the tiny harbour. A giant baobab tree covers most. Some Lesser Antilles Iguanas roams the bushes, and there are different fishes the crystal clear water. Then the sun quickly exchanges into drizzle, and I head off.

Plenty of daylight left, and I might as well revisit some favourites, down here on the south-western coast. 

First stop is Bouillante, which is a little cosy town. With a sandy beach, it would be a great tourist-magnet. In an effort to support the locals, I get a coffee and rosin-role at a real local bakery. The milk is heated in the microwave oven, the coffee brewed and served in a proper porcelain cup, the role is €1,50. It is cash-only, and the addition does take some thoughts. 

I find the beach down at find the beach town of Plage de Petite Anse. It is perfect for a swim, with light grey sand and crystal-clear water. There are a few coral blocks with marine life on, in the surf. I spend an hour in the water, and then head down to Vieux-Habitants, not for the village, but for the beach and especially the lagoon. I find a few shells, and head on.

Baillif is next on route, but there was a reason for it, not to be on the list. I then pass Basse-Terre town and take the southern mountain-road home.  Highlights   All the better photos.

Day 15. Today, I just make my way around the south coast of Grand-Terre and revisit some favourites, and perhaps find something interesting?  

I intend to drive all the way out to the most eastern point at first, bye the central road. The morning traffic slows me down, and I have to stop at the beautiful Plage de la Baie. It is a perfect cove with white sands, and I have it to myself. It ends in a sandy mangrove, which look oddly clean. 

In the little cosy town of Le Moule, I have to do another walk in the trading streets. This is my favourite Guadeloupean town, with a great array of shops, open spaces, harbour, old houses and no tourism. And great beaches and nature quite close, on top of that. And it is not one of the rainy places. I wonder how long I could live here, without getting restless?

I drag myself off – after a visit at one of the many bakeries. The target is still Pointe à la Gourde, the eastern peninsular, and this time, I almost make it. But then I see a wash-your-own-car station. In an effort to save €70, I invest €4 and five minutes on the outside.

Then I make it to the great nature area on Pointe à la Gourde. I start at the coral rocks, teaming with life. Unfortunately, I slide on some algae and dip my camera. Despite I pour out a lot of water, it refuses to work. Bit of a bummer. I hurt my hip and wrist, but that will eventually heal. At least, I can make some photos with my iPhone, although it lack some facilities.

I walk to the point with the huge cross and have it to my self. Through the bushes back to the car. I feel I have seen it all, and the huge area covered in dry bushes is not that interesting.

I then head towards Saint-François. It has a large marina, and shops scattered around a large area. However, most are closed, even La Rotunda; the large tourist marked. I give up finding a sandwich and settle for a real delicious cake with generous amount of passion and coconut jam. I try to make some photos with my iPhone, but it is just not the same. 

I find the 200 meters of hourglass-sand beach of Plage de L'anse à la Barque. I have to share the 30C hot water with six brown pelicans, that soon ignores me. Swimming with pelicans is great, but I actually wished they would not launch an attack, a meter and a half from me, when my eyes are closed. And the fished would stop using me to clean parasites of, or whatever. I'm here to relax and observe the nature, not to take part in it. I just can’t get a proper nap around here. And I try for two hours.

My new flip-flops dies on the way back to the car. Not the tang, but the hole it goes into.

Then it is time for coffee in Sainte-Anne. A hair-elastic for the flip-flop, and I enjoy the cosy beach-town once more. Despite it is packed with tourists, is maintain its charm. And the beach is awesome, although packed with people, not pelicans. It seems like the old farts play pétanque every late afternoon - why not? I would too, if I lived here. 

Then it is time to go home through the rush-hour traffic, and spend five minutes, cleaning the car inside. And then it starts to drizzle. My rain-shade for the glasses is reduced with 80% and added a long hair elastic. Instant dry, way smaller and it even sits better. Highlights   All the better photos.

Day 16. I check-out, and have a pleasant, translated conversation with my host. Then I negotiate the morning traffic around PaP, to get to the western costs of Grande-Terre. It is just to revisit some highlights, but I find alternative roads.

That leads me pass the great looking Moulin Beaufont. It is only the base, but it have a hat of a large strangler fig. Inside, only small roots reach the ground. 

I have quite some time to explore it, while I wait for the sun. And I have to run fast, to get the photo in the few glimpses I get.

Then I reach the picture perfect Plage de l'Anse Laborde. The sun is not constant, but I spend some time collecting tiny shell and fighting the urge to take a plunge. 

As I head south, I pass through little Anse-Bertrand, which have a bakery on the harbour - and I take that as a sign, when it additional have a free parking spot. I share a cake with the local starling. 

A bit further south is Port Louis' Plage du Souffleur found. This time, I can’t control myself, and I just have to plunge into the crystal clear waters. Due to the white sand, it looks so blue. Only the thought about dinner drags me up after an hour.

I head a bit inland to a town I passed yesterday: Morne a L’Eau. It looked interesting, although I might have seen it? I do several loops, and recognises a single wall painting. Then I head out to the coast again, for a fresh breeze.

I stop in Vieux Bourg, a little and cosy fishing port. Further out, a bay, some mangrove and nature in general are found around Plage de Babin. I do a long stroll along the grit-beach. The locals are covered in black mud, I skip that. I see the rather dry mangrove and the savannah-like coast.

It feels strange, Port-a-Prince is only 14 kilometres away. I head in there, and park near the centre of the old town. I find so many cosy old wooden houses and buildings, which nature is reclaiming.

I finish with a sandwich, before I gas and return the car at dusk. No comments. Plenty of time to get to the gate, and get a snack on the way. And then additional one hour delayed.  Highlights   All the better photos.

Day 17. We got tailwind, but I am still a bit pressed in Paris due to terminal change and general French inefficiency. Every one else – who made it – are seated, when I enter the little airplane. Only now, I start wondering exactly I’m doing???

In Copenhagen, I have four minutes to freeze at the platform, before the direct train for Roskilde departures. Part of the news is: The traffic is challenged by snow in parts of Zealand. I’m definitely home too early! 

Guadeloupe have been a pleasant experience, but after Martinique, I was not that impressed. The mountains are here, but not the easy access. Hardly anyone speak English, not even in the tourist business. I have heard one couple speaking English, one pair Swedish and three girls Czech. Anyone has been babbling on in French. 

That said, it is some nice islands, and the native, climate and nature is nice. I have made 4432 photos and driven 1786 kilometres, while I have spend €1996, as the flight was shared with Martinique.   Highlights from the entire Guadeloupe