French
   GUADELOUPE    DIARY  5

                From Diary 4.
Day 12. My last “important” sight is the active volcano; La Grande Soufriére. To enjoy the three hour hike, I need good weather. The forecast promise that today, and I’ll try. It take an hour to drive to the end of the road. The last bit was through rain, and I’m only at 1000 meters. Here are some people, all dressed up in a lot of gear. I sit and wait in the car for some time, but all I can se above, are clouds. It stop raining, and I give it a chance. 

It start out a great trail, passing a huge hot-top with thermic water. The area have a clear sent of sulphur too. The vegetation is real rich, and as the trail gain height, it changes. I see three different orchids flowering, so many different bromeliads, Asteraceaes, Selaginellas and a lot real strange ones, I have no clue to. 

The good trail meet an even better sealed road, and everyone else follow that. I, on the other hand, turns into the real shitty little track, leading real steep up on boulders, towards the peak. It canyon opens up, giving room for a lot of peat-mosses and alike. At the edge of the mountain top, I meet the rain and harsh, cold wind. One side have rain, the other fog and to the sides are real strong winds. I think, I reach the peak, but I can’t see anything. There are no crater: the activity are on the sides. 
I skip the 100 meter waterfall; Les Chutes du Carbet, as it is on the rainy and windy side.

I head back down to the better weather and sealed road. It passes several areas with sulphur-rich springs and white, washed-away mountain sides. When I don’t see more new plants, I turn around. Accordingly to my GPS, the nice road lead right back to my car. It is a great walk back, down through the rainforest, and I have it to myself. It turns out, the gate I parked at, have a sign, banning unauthorised personal to use that sealed road. I really can’t figure why?

After three hours of tracking, I am ready for lunch. The GPS know of a supermarket in nearby Saint-Claude - which turns out to be a bakery. I don’t complain. 

Then I have a look at this little highland town; 450 meter over the sea. It holds an university and several other schools, but not much else. Some of the villas look great - or at least; used to. 

Then I head further down towards the sea. It is through settlement, but no actual towns, till I reach Basse-Terre town. I try Fort Delgrés once more, but it is apparently closed on Sundays as well. I try to get a photo of the real nice looking Le pont du Galion, the old bridge, crossing the river of La Galion. It was build between 1773 and 1780. 

I end up in Basse-Terre town, with the modern port and the run-down town. It is real sunny here, and I try to capture the town in the sun this time. 

Is cosy in its own way, and the sun sure add to the experience. I see it all and finish the visit with a cup of coffee the only place which are open, besides from the single Chinese multi store. 

The few other places I can see the rest of the day, are most likely overcrowded by locals, enjoying their weekend with the family. I head down to Grotte Anse Dupuy, which is a grotto on the beach. Here are a restaurant, a harbour, divers and bathers - around ten in total. I do a bit of walking, then take the plunged at the black gravel beach. Besides from a iguana, none sees me. 

I head into Vieux-Fort, which is completely dead. Then home by the south-eastern coastal road. It is only four, but I had an intention about washing my shoos. Unfortunately, there are no cold water, and I guess the hot is limited to the sun-heater tank. It take some time releasing my wet shoos and towel from the washing-machine.  Highlights   All the better photos.

Day 13. The day is all about the central mountain road of Basse-Terre; Route de la Traversee; D23. The forecast and view out to the garden promise some sun and no rain, and that will make it perfect. Except from the lack of water for a shower, that is. 

First up is the popular Cascade aux Ecrevisses on the Corossol river. The huge parking lot is empty this early, and I enjoy the good path into the rainforest. It follow a large river, and where it is meet by a smaller, a real nice waterfall and pond is found.
I make way too many photos, then head up the smaller river. It is a patchwork of motives, never-mind where I look. Strangely enough, it seems like none walks here. I have to jump from boulder to boulder, covered in mosses and algae. 

I return to the bigger river, and follow it deep in to the undisturbed forest. Again, everything is motives. When I return to the fall and pond, the hordes have arrived, dipping their blubber in the crystal clear waters. Not a pretty sight anymore. 

I head on to the way less popular Cascade Corossol. Here are only some cascades, where a river branches out and re-join again, several times. I’ve been here before, but now with sun, not drizzle. And that sure improve the motives. 

I follow the river up and down, and once within the dense rainforest. That is almost impossible, but I see some fantastic roots.
I hear a lot of birds, but only see a few. Here are some beautiful anoles, and some small crustaceans in the crystal clear but cold water. Above water, I see quite some insects, from tiny ants to huge moths. The trees and boulders are covered in climbing and epiphytic plants, and spore-plants are rich represented. The river don’t seem to have anything but algae. 

I head on to Maison de la Forêt, a forest national park – I might already be within. It is surprisingly popular, and I fail to find a place to park. Might be that I’m hungry anyway...

13 kilometres down to the sea, and Bas Galets with some good beaches are found. And that give tourists, which again secure a range of shops. I park at the supermarket, but spot a bakery. I get a huge and delicious full-grain baguette with vegetables and a coffee for €5. I might return. 

I passed some roads, leading into the forest on my way out here, and now, I head back. First pass the numerous parked cars along the beach. At 575 meters height, I reach the tiny trail at Morne a Louis. It is muddy and leads under a dense canopy, leaving little light to the ground. Not interesting enough for the effort it takers to walk. 

A bit further up the road, in 600 meters height, Col des Mamelles offers a view over the forest, and another trail. Or rather; a staircase. It start out nice, but disintegrates and become muddy. The views are fantastic, the bromeliads huge and I enjoy the assent. It is sufficient open to allow a dense growth on the floor and stems of the crooked trees, and I spot several species of orchids along with so many other plants.

At 800 meters height, the viewing platform Mamelle de Pigeon offers a great panorama to the surrounding mountains, although it is struggling to raise over the surrounding trees. One species of bromeliads can reach over two meters in height, and almost as wide. I only meet two others trackers on this real long a challenging trail. 

Figuring I won’t appreciate additional tracks in this national park today, I head down to Jardin de Valombreuse, a botanical garden. It is a real nice and quiet place, this late in the day, and I enjoy it. Here are not only names on most plants, some are interesting, other impressive. I do the tour, and the camera is running out if battery, after an hour. The water have returned at home – in the cold tap.  Highlights   All the better photos.
               And then into the last page; Diary 6.