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FUERTEVENTURA

INFO & DIARY  1

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 GENERAL INFO (Jump to Diary)
Fuerteventura is one of the Spanish Canary Islands, found 97 kilometres from the north-western coast of Africa. At 1,659.74 square kilometres, it is the second largest of the Canary Islands, after Tenerife. It is 100 times 31 kilometres big, and the highest peak is Pico de la Zarza with 807 metres. Fuerteventura is the home to 124,152 inhabitants.
The island's name is a compound formed by the Spanish words fuerte; "strong" or "fort" and ventura; "fortune". The first settlers of Fuerteventura are believed to have come from North Africa. They lived in caves and semi-subterranean dwellings, some of which have been excavated, revealing remnants of early tools and pottery. Several Spanish and Portuguese expeditions to the islands were organized around 1340, followed by Moors and European slave traders.
Fuerteventura has a hot desert climate, which is mild but windy. It is the oldest island in the Canary Islands dating back 20 million years.
The wildlife: The island is home to one of the two surviving populations of the threatened Canarian Egyptian vulture. Unfortunately, here are many wild dogs and cats: All of the mammals found on Fuerteventura were either introduced deliberately or accidentally with the exception of Bats. Fuerteventura also hosts several migratory and nesting birds. The island has significant populations of the collared dove, common swifts and several finch species especially in the vicinity of holiday developments.
Here are a lot of butterflies and other insects - as the use of pesticides are limited. Here are a few reptilians: The East Canary gecko or Canary wall gecko; Tarentola angustimentalis, The Mediterranean house gecko, Hemidactylus turcicus, the Atlantic lizard; Gallotia atlantica and the Haria Lizard; Gacerta atlantica.
The flora counts a bit over 500 species. My main interest: Caudiciforms might count Astydamia latifolia, Atriplex halimus, Bryonia verrucosa, Citrullus colocynthis, Dioscorea communis, Dipcadi serotinum, Dracaena draco, Ecballium elaterium, Euphorbia balsamifera, Ferraria crispa, Ficaria verna, Kleinia neriifolia, Muscari graecum, Narcissus broussonetii, Pancratium maritimum, Scilla latifolia, Semele androgyna, Urginea maritima, Withania aristata and Umbilicus heylandianus. Found a cool page (I haven't used): http://webidguides.com/_templates/index_fuerteventura.html .

DIARY
12/11 2024. I caught an earlier ferry from Lanzarote and land in Corralejo at ten o'clock. My apartment is a kilometre away, and I walk. I meet my caretaker by chance outside, and take over my apartment. Just around the corner, I find a SuperDino, the big supermarket. I buy a lot for dinner, but head around the corner to get an early lunch. Then I'm ready to explore the surroundings.
I trot five kilometres along the coast to Playa del Bajo de la Burra, which is called Popcorn Beach, as there are small white corals floating here. These are actually Rhodoliths which are calcareous algae. The first 500 meters through Saladar de Bristol, where five known species of plants from Lanzarote are scattered among the lava rocks on a sandy plain. Then it's just dry lava, which has some walls at the beginning. After that, it's just boring until I reach the beach; Playa del Bajo de la Burra. My GPS showed a sandy beach, but it turns out to be rugged lava rocks.
The first thing you meet at the sandy beach is a private home made of things that have washed ashore – and not very pretty. Then follows the beach, where there are areas of black lava, golden sand and white "popcorns". I collect a few small things and find a nice large popcorn. I continue all the way to the end of the area, where some tidal pools have small fish.
I trudge home again along the dusty gravel road, which has not become any more interesting. Past Spar for a small bottle of water, and then over to the nearest pastry shop for a latte and a small but tasty coconut meringue.
I have seen a few older buildings, but it seems like a nice but new town. I find a park at the other end of town; 2.5 kilometres away. As I remember it, it looked really boring on Google Earth, despite the name; Parque Botanico de Corralejo. But I have the time.
I take a small detour via La Galera; the local beach. There are actually several beautiful beaches, some with lava, some with golden sand and actually a bit disappointing (after the long walk for it earlier); several with popcorn, and large beautiful specimens.
I also walk through the enormous tourist town, which is partly cosy. I reach the first park, which is just grass, a few palm trees and a colourful statue. Then follows a strange park, which is new. Steel pools with artificial grass around and a huge mound with scattered succulents. I trudge home to my apartment, through the countless shops, bars and restaurants in Corralejo. Home to cooking and relaxing.
Day's highlights.
13/11. A slow start to the day, mainly due to too way too many emails. I've become quite excited about sailing, so I take a ferry to Isla de Lobes, a small island close to Fuerteventura and Corralejo. I've stock a bit of food and water, as it looks very deserted. I didn't know the times, but they're waiting, while I buy my ticket.
I've chosen to spend a good four hours on the island, and start the walk, all the way around. Here are the usual five species of succulents as well as a new plant, with blue flowers. There are also quite a few animals; shy brown lizards, flies, larks, seagulls, predatory flies, two species of snails and traces of rabbits. In fact, the whole island is a national park. That doesn't stop me from taking four empty snail shells from the land snail; Cochlicella acuta, as a souvenir.
The first thing I see is a perfect beach that is deserted. It's mostly lava, but there are also stretches of white sand. Several smaller volcanoes break the horizon, and one end of the island is just one large volcano; Montaña de La Caldera Isla de Lobos. The peak is a popular destination, and a rough stone staircase leads all the way up to the top. I can't convince myself to walk it.
I cross over a small plain while the seagulls sit on the top and scream at me. A couple of dried-up lagoons have a lot of Agava sisal, it's an old crop and looks like it's going to be eradicated.
Much of the lava is incredibly porous, and in some places with very large bubbles.
On the back of the island is the old lighthouse, on its own small volcano. There are starting to be some lagoons, and a fabulously beautiful one appears; Las Lagunitas. Crystal clear water with white sand and a garden of succulents and a broad-leaved plant. I make a few videos, and hope they capture the magic.
Closer to the harbour; Puertito Isla de Lobos is a small settlement that even has a restaurant. I get a latte that lasts until the ferry arrives. Actually, it's a different company, but I get a lift and am back by three o'clock. I look at birds and fish in the harbour, before finding a delicious salad at the marina.
I have no other sights for today, and just wander around the city, aimlessly– but close to the water. It's actually quite nice for a tourist town, but now I've seen it.
Day's highlights.
14/11. I take the bus to Puerto del Rosario to see the old town. There are quite a few old buildings along the large port, and it looks nice. Unfortunately, the Mercado Municipal is under renovation, and I just have to see some more art. There is a lot of it in the streets. The goats have a very special place in the hearts of the locals, and there are statues and murals with them.
I follow the coast past a couple of huge cruise ships and other scattered tourism. A second breakfast at a cafe, in an astonishingly sleepy town, where it is ten o'clock. I have a latte and a bun with tomato and goat mozzarella.
I follow the coast south, and come past a golden sandy beach; Playa del Pozo, then a rocky beach and then one with head-sized rocks. I end up at the remains of two mills from the 1950s. Oddly enough, there is a colony of chipmunks here.
I turn around and find the pedestrian street, where people are gathered. Bars and cafes as well as the huge Chinese shops that have everything from souvenirs like elephants over Buddhas to boomerangs. And everything else you can get for next to nothing in Chinese web shops.
I make a few more loops, and am then quite convinced; I have seen everything the city has to offer. It was actually less than I expected. I grab a light lunch before I find the huge bus station with the brand new and luxurious blue buses. Quite unusually, I end up waiting for ten minutes. And then suddenly, there is a very long queue. I end up being the last to get onboard, and get the shotgun folding seat. I don't complain. I get to sit there, until we reach Corralejo. Here I jump off at the beginning of the city, and stroll slowly home while looking for a souvenir, maybe a spotted small goat, if I see more on the island? I am late, and not least hungry at home.
Day's highlights.
               And the tour continues in Diary 2.

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