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FUERTEVENTURA
DIARY  4                                

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Diary 1  2  3  4

                From Diary 3.
20/11. It's a grey morning, and it could look like rain. In fact, it's sprinkling a little, as I walk over to the car. I take it slowly: The plan is to do a lot fewer kilometres today, and more lattes. I stop in Antigua, a sleepy little town that I've passed several times. I drop the car off near Iglesia de Nuestra Santa de Antonius, the city's old church. It's also sprinkled a little here, and it smells fresh.
It's a messy town, but in a nice way. Ruins and nice new houses next to each other. Opposite the church is the café, and I support the town by buying a latte. They get to keep the breakfast sand cake. The back of the town overlooks the fertile oasis in the large ravine that the town owes its existence to. At this time of year, you mostly see the palm trees and the red soil. There are also some prickly pear cactus, a few figs, and pomegranate trees.
There is an endless amount of motifs around the city, from a long-parked Fort T over a green herb garden, older old houses to rich people's villas. I am almost grateful for the absence of the sun. I finish with a latte, before continuing towards Vega de Rio Palmas. It is via the beautiful FV-30, through Parque Rural Betancuria. There are a lot of larger plants along the mountain road, but not on the slopes. They are probably planted, which explains, for example, the carob bushes. But I also find several new herbs on the slopes along the endless travesties.
There are several lookout points that, even in today's haze, provide a fantastic view of the orange plain.
I stop for lunch in Betancuria, but save the charming city for tomorrow. Vegetarian dishes are scarce, so it ends with a biscuit cake.
After several stops, I come to a lush oasis with a small patch. Unlike Betancuria, which had many cars and some buses, here there are only four cars in the town. The sun is almost breaking through, but at the same time it is starting to drizzle. I fold the seat back to get a nap, and after ten minutes, the sun comes out victorious.
I see the small, beautiful church, and follow the dried-up river, far out of town. When it crosses a small road, I follow it to Vega de Rio Palmas, further down the valley. It is mainly the parking lot for a hiking trail. I continue on the small road towards Valle del Granadillo, and the valley becomes a gorge. Then back to the main road, which is the beautiful FV-30. I stopped at several lookouts. Some have chipmunks and Berthelot's pipit; Anthus berthelotii wandering around. It is a fantastic road that runs right under the edge of the valley. The huge granite sides do not hold many plants, but I find a few new ones. One is a beautiful goat bonsai.
I reach Pajara at four o'clock, and enjoy a latte and sandwich. Then I return homewards, but turn right into Antigua. I hope the sun is on the good subject of the old houses, which is a fantastic subject. The sun peeks out for a few minutes, and I find the place. And in another city, I just have to photograph a few "Easter Island heads".
Day's highlights.
21/11. I return to the area I explored yesterday, in the middle of the island, because there is more to see here. I find the start of the FV-30, which quickly turns into a beautiful hill/mountain road. There are several lookouts, and even more views. I stop at all of them, and at this time of day, I have them all to myself.
One stop is at the view of Valle de Santa Inés. I find a few new plants, including two bulbs. It seems they are either getting more rain here, or they have gotten something, where the rest of the island was cheated.
At Mirador de Morro Velosa, someone has built an impressive restaurant on the 670-meter peak. Unfortunately, they have not been able to run it.
I reach Betancuria before their Museo de Arquelogico opens. This gives me the opportunity to explore the charming town before it fills up with tourists.
I see the lush gardens, the Iglesia de Santa Maria, a church from 1620, the beautiful old houses, the ruins and their plant collections. The café opens and I enjoy a latte and carrot cake.
The Museo de Arquelogico about the Guanche tribes is brand new and large, although they don't have many objects from the original inhabitants. But they do have quite a few of the original inhabitants, or at least their skeletons and skulls. When I get out, the first eight buses have landed in the small town, and more arrive, as I walk back to the car.
I take the beautiful continuation of the road, but have to turn into the Aula de la Naturaleza Parra Medina. I follow the dried-up stream, far into the gorge. Some areas on the steep sides are cultivated, either with prickly pear cactus or sisal agaves. I find a few colonies of Caralluma burchardii, but nothing else exciting.
I continue towards Pájara, where I have an appointment with a café owner who has turned me down twice. I am welcomed by the five employees like a hero. I'm get to order two sandwiches, one with local goat cheese and tomato, the other with fried egg, onion, lettuce and tomato, but without tuna, both delicious. I find a route home that is beautiful. First via gravel roads out to the east coast. Some roads have been washed away completely, others lead around widely scattered farms.
I end up at Salinas del Carmen, where salt has been harvested. Now it's just a museum and a small fishing village; El Muellito. Here is also the large skeleton of a fin whale and a beach.
For once, I'm home while it's light, and I use it for a walk around the beaches. But it gets dark quickly, so I head home again. Shortly after, thre's a little bit of a drizzle.
Day's highlights.
22/11. There's nothing else on the agenda, except the airport, but not until ten o'clock. I have plenty of time for another visit to the old town of La Oliva. I reach it before the sun, but I know where the locals eat their morning sand cake.
I fill up the car and return it, without comment. Then I have an hour to enjoy the sun and a latte, and then an early lunch, on the airport's large terrace. At the gate, I find an iPhone, and after a little announcement at the gate: Its owner. Then a four-hour flight to Düsseldorf, where I have an hour to consider whether it's a good idea to head home, and if that is the whether I really want? The ground is actually covered in a thick layer of snow, when I stupidly enough, get home.

Fuerteventura was a good experience.  I made 2567 photos and have drown 1397 kilometres. In contrast to Lanzarote, there are many small farms here, and generally a more rural atmosphere. The nature is not richer, but there is more of it.
I exceeded my budget by 100%, solely because of car number 2.
Expenses DKK
Flight/boat (1/3) 1161 155
Car 1+2 7715 1029
Petrol 660 86
Apartment 1799 240
Stuff 327 42
Food 1371 178
Total: 13033 1729

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