EL HIERRO (E)    DIARY  4

               From Diary 3.
28/11. Day 9. We start the day, all-in Black Friday: Shopping in the capital; Valverde. We do many loops, mainly to find a parking lot, closer than our home.
The walk down the entire main street and the other street, don't reveal any interesting shops, although I find another "crooked tree souvenir".

In a persuade of the sun, we head down to the coast and Tamaduste. Here are a bit of misty sun and a rather impressive waterfront. Endless terraces and steps around the natural harbour, and even a few people. We  get coffee at the only place, and head on.

Pass the airport, and we are back at Piscina de La Caleta. Besides from the turquoise pools, here are a rough coastline, cask in lava, a few square concrete houses and little less.

Ever since we saw the Pena restaurant, with the awesome view, we have tried to dine there. This time, we actually succeeds. Henriette get a rather overcooked Cabonera, while my sweet potatoes with pomegranate, kick-peas and avocados is a bit dull, but surely filling.

Somehow, the day have pretty much gone, and we head home - pass the supermarket. An unusually relaxing day, with not that much sunshine.      The highlights; Day 9. The lot; Day 9.

29/11. Day 10. We test some (actually; the rest) of the cafes and alike, the head for a short drive at the northern coast. We lost the sun somewhere in the heights, and head back. Then down on the eastern coast, where we stick to the heights, and once more admire the views from Mirador Isora and Mirador de Las Playas.

I finally find flowers in the else so numerous Giant Tree Dandelion; Sonchus palmensis. At the same time, I see some Navelwort; Umbilicus rupestris, which might be native.

The time have run out for my co-driver, and we head down to the airport, with time for at chat. Then I head home alone, and get to cook dinner. A real fast work on the few photos and experiences of the day, and I get to see Formula 1 Spring and Qualifying. The highlights; Day 10.

30/11. Day 11. As I have seen what I came for, the day is set off to highlights. It is a real sunny morning, and I make a few photos of Valverde. Then I gas the car on the way out of town, and as I’m alone, I get the 25% discount by the nice lady.

Some kilometres out of town, I spot a cave with some improvised walls. It seems like it is used for overnights for goats or sheep. It might have started out natural, but have been expanded by man.

I then connect with yesterday’s last dot, at the still awesome Mirador de Las Playas. Just like the previous visits, I completely fail to capture the greatness of this place, but I still enjoy it. And different times of day give different motives. The crocked pines, the dark blue sea with the white surf and the different coloured lava slopes is art.

Another great pine forest great drive brings me to Mirador de la Llanía. Not for the view down to the beach, but for the moss covered and crocked laurel trees. I make a lot if photos, none capture the magic of this place. I follow a trail for quite some time, and see birds, mushrooms, ferns and a few plants besides from the trees and mosses.

A bit downwards through a green forest, and the pines take over. Actually, here are almost nothing else, till I reach a clearing. It is covered in old almond and fig trees, and have its oven atmosphere. I munch on some of the giant almonds, but leave the few figs alone, as they are so sticky.

More awesome pine trees and then the Mirador el Julan, with the familiar coatline, 600 meters down. The pines are further apart here, and the ground in-between are barren. Further down, a giant slope continues down to the coast, and are sparsely green with mainly Euphorbias. Here are large areas with ancient stone walls, but it seems to be abandon long time ago.

I pass the Monument to the Shepherd, and then enters the El Sabinar area with crocked junipers, along HI-500. Then the Santuario Virgen Los Reyes sits on the slope. As it is Sunday, it is open. The bright white walls look great, and I do the area, except the souvenir shop. The church is a bit empty, with only benches and the alter wall.

The road turns gravel, and are aliened with trees for some parts, in an else real dry area, and the views to the lowlands and coast are great. Not much higher, the first Sabina junipers start. Mushroom shaped and lush bushes. I make a few photos of the flowers and great views.

It turns slightly drier and the first crooked tress start. I do several extensive walks among the awesome trees, one greater looking than the previous. As I decent, the dark blue sea reveals, and the vegetation opens up. One area look like slate, although it is lava.

I don’t really appreciate the other plants here, although there might be unfamiliar species. Well, most are differently the usual suspects. Well, and Asparagus is flowering along with a single Euphorbia, while I usually only see the fruits on. Some of the Euphorbias are covered in a thick layer of lichen, just like the junipers.

A single locus, some lizards, grasshoppers and large beetles enjoy the sun along with me. I find an old stick, looking like the iconic trees, especially when I add lichen. That will become my El Hierro souvenir.

The area is criss-crossed by trails, made by absent cows. I think I'm aloud to explore the area, although I'm all by my self. The famous tree, had two visitors, while I was in that area.

The real long gravel road actually branches out to Mirador de Bascos, and I have a look. It is through a pine forest and out on the other side of the central ridge.
Then I have to turn around, and head down to more fertile areas. And then the huge pine forest for several kilometres.

In an attempt to connect with the northern coast, I follow the little gravel-road; HI-45 for 11 kilometres. It is kind of smooth, real twisted and offers so many great views. And then the camera acts up. Well, 500 photos and some videos have drained the battery.

I pass 1350 meters, and some stretches are covered in clouds, others in sun.
It is a great drive, and I wished the camera would anticipate. Some areas are covered in a thick layer of emerald green moss. Despite I have it all to myself, the higher parts are allied by nicely made stone walls, and it is well maintained.

The northern side is significantly dryer, and the volcanic ash pretty barren. Then start the pines -and great coastal views. HI-45 eventually end, and connect with the great looking EI-1, which is a little, twisted mountain road.

I have now reach the northern coast – although way up, but the view down is great.
I stop to pinch a few of the great looking ferns with finger-sized rhizomes, and find flowering orchids. Not that spectacular, but nice to see. The lack of camera make me head down to Frontera for coffees, then I follow the coastal road home at four.

It is yet another great drive, pass the enormous green vertical mountain side. Despite I get houses on the photo, it is impossible to see the tiny dots at the foot of the wall. The sun is on the cosy restored village; Ecomuseo de Guinea comienza, but it is invisible against the lave bedrock.

I pass some tiny vine farms, a few villages and small convenient stores. It is only number six that have my favourite coconut tops. I am home at six, with 600 photos that need extensive tingling to look all right. I just write the diary, and at nine, I watch Formula 1 - saving the photos for later. Despite it was my last day of exploring, I have seen so much interesting, and really enjoyed it.
The highlights; Day 11. The lot; Day 11.

1/12. Day 12. Well, it is just about driving to the airport, nine kilometres away, drop the car and get on a flight to Tenerife, wait two hours, fly to Madrid, wait additional two hours and find Copenhagen. I spend the 40 minutes in Valverde and two hours in Tenerife, processing the photos from yesterday and buy an additional Ixus 220 camera, while I sip the last cafe con leche.

El Hierro is a real nice island, with some unique nature, few towns and awesome views. I have been a bit different experience, due to the presence of a co-traveller for most of the time. Food and home became a bit more expensive, compared to the previous islands.
I have driven only 961 kilometres, but spend €1069, equals €97 a day.   90 best photos.