EL HIERRO (E)    DIARY  2

               From Diary 1.
23/11. Day 4. The Sunday market in La Frontera is neither big, nor that interesting. Now we know. Some German art artists, vegetables and fruits along with second-hand clothing.
Then we try to find the sun, going up on the mountain top, as this is on the coastal plane, shadowed by the enormous wall. At the foot of it, we find the old but restored Lagartario village. We kind of see it from outside, and save the €20. With sun on, it might work better.

It is a magic drive through fertile lava, pure nature and abandon stonewalls. Here are a few cows, sheep and goads, but fare from what can be kept here. It more or less continues up to 1250 meters height.
A sign show of to the amassing Mirador de la Pena. And while we are at the fancy restaurant, we get a latte, suck up sun and the awesome view. Just the view from the female toilet, is a treat!

Another view point is found way into the farmland. The drive there is an adventure itself: Endless stone walls, a few cows and a friendly donkey. Mirador Jinama is covered in clouds for several minutes, then a magnificent panorama to the lowlands reveal itself. We just lack coffee.

Down to a restaurant La Maceta at the coast, through the 2,4 kilometres long tunnel. A light and late brunch among locals, right at the rather windy coast. The mountain is now covered in clouds, and we continue along the coast.

Then further along the coast to Charco Azul to enjoy coffee and two cinnamon roles. Bag homewards pass the chapel of Campagnario de Joapira, found on the top of a little volcano.

Further up the mountainside, we end up in a fairytale forest, with crooked and moss overgrown trees, mushrooms and total quietness. It is somewhere near Mirador de la Llania, and we will return a sunny day.

Then home by the highlands, where the scenery changes constantly. Desert barren hillside, flat green grassland, forest of Eucalyptus, vertical basalt walls, pea-soup, euphorbia-land, giant boulders, volcanic and ash gravel, cacti and chestnuts. We gather a bagful for later consumption.

In the evening, we do an extensive hike - within Velverde, chasing down dinner. We end up with lasagne takeaway, as the pickings are extreme limited. Kind of: The alternative IS the alternative. Well, is actually tasted good.      The highlights; Day 4. The lot; Day 4.

24/11. Day 5. Just as we get up, a police officer approaches our open front-door. He only speak Spanish, and have the leave without anything.
We chase the sun - although our home is bathed in it, and that leads us further out the northern road, towards west.

We enjoy morning coffee at the poolside at a fancy hotel, lying in the beach chairs, heating up in the sun.
A bit reluctant, we continues along the real dry coastal planes to Arenas Blancas. Here are black and red rocks and blue sea. Some areas are covered in perlite, as a nice topping among the scattered Asteraceas.

Further along the coast, we pass an area with dark grey basalt, with a layer of red, air-filled lava on top. It is completely barren, but look great along the crystal but deep blue sea.
A little road zigzag up to Mirador de Lomo Negro with great views down to the black and red rocky coastal plane, blue sea and white surf. The lave is more fertile up here, and among the Euphorbias and Asteraceas, some rocks are covered in a thick layer of lichen.

Further up, Mirador de Lomo Negro II offers a look down to No I and the same great coastline. Where we have had it all to our selves until now, a swarm of garbage truck pass us.

It is way pass lunch, and we haven't had brunch. There is absolutely nothing out here, and we head back the way we came, to La Frontera to find brunch. The open place in town offers bocadillos, half flutes with Spanish specials, and they are actually good.

Back on track, we see the slightly red beach of Playa del Verodal. It might have been less interesting, but a walk in the surf, followed by ice-coffee and pastry, along with the sun and company, make it great.

The area is really dry, and almost barren. That changes, when we head up towards 500 meters. Small barren red cones stick up through the green blanket, and it look great.

A bit higher up, we meet the first crooked junipers; Juniperus turbinata canariensis. They look awesome, with the twisted stems and few green branches. They are scatted around in the else so well known plants, and a single large one is have a little wall around.

As it become even more fertile, the Euphorbias gain site to real big. Some stems are 30 centimetres, huge, compare the the usual 10 centimetres. At first, I don't even recognise them.

We cross over the most western point of the island, and down on the northern coast. Here, the magnificent light tower; Faro de Orchilla look like a large church. The area is so barren, the lave read and look new.

We head homewards bye the central ridge, around 1000 meters. Quite soon, a huge pine forest covers the heights. Some trees are absolutely massive, and bear the marks of fires. The motives are endless, with everything from "kindergartens" to giants.

At a opening, we find Opuntia cacti with ripe fruits - and we are prepared, and grab some. They are a bit dull tasting through.
Home in Valverde, we shop a bit, gas the car and I find replacement for my renegade sock.
Late diner at the pizzeria, and a walk through town.     The highlights; Day 5. The lot; Day 5.

25/11. Day 6. The sun seems to take the day off, all over the island, but we head south anyway. The first stop is at the little town of Timijiraque and the real mixed shop with washing machines, cutlery, jackets, Christmas stuff, paint, tools, toys and alike. The entire village is placed on the steep, sea-facing hill side.

On the other side of the village, we meet some semi-barren lava areas. The were created 40 years ago, and look like an sculptor, gone mad but real productive. Tunnels, twists, caves, circles and waves, home to a few succulents.

Here are also a few fig-trees, looking like they have melted, with a limited amount of live branches. We find almonds, some covered in dry fruits.
Then another drive down to the coast, along real red lava mountain sides and odd looking black lava-ask with white stripes.

We reach the port and beach of Playa de La Restinga, with the board-walks on the coastal lava in the harbour area. And actually; little else. We head on through more fantastic lava formations to Cala de Tacoron, a little natural harbour and black pebble beach.

Back to cosy El Pinar town, and out through the stone-walls, surrounding the tiny vine fields. Then we reach 1000 meters and the highland pines. Even without sun, it is a great drive.

On the other side, we meet some old farmland with alleys of juniper trees and endless stone walls. The Euphorbias are huge, the partridge unusual relaxed and the clouds real low. We pass the statue of El Pastor and then Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Reyes, a white monastery, way out in nowhere.

As we approach the Sabinar area, way out west, the juniper tress become more crochet and and scars. I could spend a day here - with a proper camera and the sun. I lack both.

It is getting late, and we follow the north-coast homewards. A restaurant is not only open, it have local specialities. I get a bit of goat cheese on a bed of latish and apples, while my co-driver order 400 grams of a cow, served with her own frying pan. I finish mine...

It have turned pitch-black, when we finally head homewards, and once again, we wonder where everyone are.
    The highlights; Day 6. The lot; Day 6.

               Then I continue in Diary 3.