EL HIERRO (E) INFO & DIARY  1

 GENERAL INFO (Jump to Diary)

El Hierro is the farthest south and west of the Canary Islands with a population of around 12,000. Its capital is Valverde. At 268.51 square kilometres, it is the second smallest of the eight main islands of the Canaries. The name El Hierro, although spelled like the Spanish word for 'iron', is not related to that word. The H in the name of the metal is derived from the F of Latin ferrum, a phonetic mutation that was complete by the end of the Middle Ages.
The ancient natives of the island, called Bimbaches, were subjected to Spanish rule by Jean de Béthencourt – more by the process of negotiation than by military action.

The precise climate of El Hierro depends on the area. The climate ranges are from subtropical Mediterranean (Köppen: Csa/Csb) in the centre of the island, to semi-arid (BSh) and to a desert climate (BWh) in coastal sections. It also has tropical climate (As) influences on some areas, as the coldest month average temperature does not fall below 18 °C, but as precipitation is very low, the arid/semi-arid climate overlaps with the tropical climate, and therefore, its official classification according to AEMET is semi-arid or arid, depending on the exact area of the island. The temperatures are greatly influenced by the ocean.

El Hierro's size and geography supports entirely endemic species including the critically endangered El Hierro giant lizard; Gallotia simonyi, for which there is a captive breeding programme, allowing its reintroduction. The current highest point is in the middle of the island, in Malpaso, at 1,501 metres.

DIARY
20/11 2025. Day 1.The flight is a bit delayed from Tenerife, but my Citroën C3 from Budget/Avis is not there anyway: They thought, I was arriving from La Gomera.
There is a great sunset, when I finally leave the airport. It is almost dark, when I reach the alley, where I thought my apartment was.

A real nice mechanic make some calls, as it fails for me, and he get the code for a key-box. I try several doors in the building, and get into one. I just ditch the bag in the entrance, and head for the supermarket. And I get a six-pack for the mechanic.

As I exit the SuperDino, the sky opens, and I am glad, I took the car for that 1,2 km tour cross town. The rain continues all evening. Hope that means it is over for November.

Back "home", there is only one bedroom and no kitchen. Well, I can cook noodles in a electric kettle. Then it turns out; I'm in the wrong place. I actually have a proper house with a huge kitchen. I wrap up Tenerife and all e-mails and alike, and then it is way pass midnight.

21/11. Day 2. It is a gloomy morning, with only 18C, and I’m in no hurry. At ten, I walk the 300 meters to the central square in the "capital" Valverde. It is pass decaying old huts, a green ravine and tiny fields, taken over by Opuntias. Then some nice houses and the huge church; Nuestra Senora de la Conception, surrounded by steps and staircases. Then follow the municipal building and a open café, with a few craftsmen and women.

I get a little flute with vegetables, cheese and a fried egg. Along with a café con leche, it cost €5,40. Despite the lack of sun, I do a loop along the shopping street, pass the green ravine and home through the domestic area with small gardens.

As the forecast promises rain here in the afternoon, I do a cross-island tour. Some waypoints and sights leading me over the central part to the south coast.
At first, I have to stop time and time again. The views to the sea, the old farm buildings, the stone walls and the native plants like the Sanjoras; Aeonium hierrensis.

Then El Mocanal offers more motives and a cuppa in the sun. Further on, the sun vanishes, and despite the motives are great, the camera doesn’t get it at all. Great motives, shitty photos. I can’t wait to trash the Kodak camera.

Even the views at Mirador de la Pena looks dull on it. It is real close to the water, but 666 meters up. Here is a restaurant, taking up most of the viewpoint, but at least, it is a nice building.

From here, I turn into the highlands, with farms and nature. At 1000 meters, the pine forest starts, although it might be planted? I do a stroll on the needles, but here are not much else to find.

I struggle a bit with the car, it is French after all. It warns about speeding, till it see the first speed-sign. The clutch is racing-grade, the window buttons have to be held, all the way up and down, and are placed at my elbow. There is no power-plug, except the one who hijack the iPhone, and can’t be released. The list is long.

At 1200 meters, the skies closes in, and now the landscape look like the pictures. I head on, hoping for clearance on the other side. I stop to get some bred and coffee in tiny Las Casas. Then I give up on sunshine, as I’m still on the same side. I simply get too frustrated by the camera in this weather.

The HI-1 leads through a landscape quite similar to Ireland. Endless stone walls, green grasses and even cattle. Then the rain get real heavy, only to give in to the dense fog. I'm home at four, and walk to the supermarket, mainly to get a €50 bill broken, to pay for extra bedding.
    The highlights; Day 2.  The lot; Day 2.
         (Both open in a new window).

22/11. Day 3. I start the day with F1 qualifying. I then slowly work my way down to the southern coast, stopping at any given chance, at the south facing slopes to botanise and enjoy the views in general. Here are not that many plants on this dry and rough lava, but I like this environment.

Some giant art-things; Homenaje a la Bajada make me stop too. I fail to figure what it is about though, but the have an internet site.
After the airport, the coastal road starts, and I walk a bit on the rocky beach, before Timijiraque. Here are a few species of snails, crabs and gobies.

Further west, the large Euphorbia canariensis dominate the sea-facing slopes. Here are partridge and ravens, but only a few of each.
After a kilometre of tunnel, the road terminates at Playa de la Arena. Here are a bit of scattered settlement, and the slopes a bit more fertile, although with the usual suspects. I wouldn’t mind, finding a little café by now.

I boot-up, and do a long hike along the coast. Besides from plastic from ships, I can add two plants to the list, and a lot of desperate photos of lava, Euphorias and mountain-walls.
At the entrance to the tunnel, a rock wall in the sea; El Roque de La Bonanza, near the coast, have several holes. I try a lot of camera settings, none works.

At noon, I head back, mainly towards the nearest supermarket in the hamlet of Timisiraque. It is tiny, but their coconut tops are great. And a but further down the beach, I find coffee and a seat in the sun, with sea and mountains views. I just enjoy it all.

A local crashes into the orange SOS-thing, wrecking both it and his car. Well, it is Saturday, and here are a lot of functional alcoholics. I did not enjoy that, I’m just glad it wasn’t me driving or walking.
The old road, leading around the cliffs, offers a great but illegal walk. Rocks do actually fall here. I resist the urge for another cuppa, and head slowly homewards.

The sun in the back, once more, offers just so many motives (and few good photos).
Newer the less, I make some detours on several blind roads, one to El Tejal, and see some lovely nature.

The sun fades at thee O'clock, close to home and at 600 meters. I do a bit of laundry, then start deleting photos of the day. At five, I pickup my co-driver in the airport, go shopping and spoiling our selves with great pizzas at a little local joint.         The highlights; Day 3. The lot; Day 3.

               Time to head on in Diary 2.