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  BRUNEI    DIARY  3

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                From Diary 2.
8/6. I’m up at six, and walk to the Gadong Wet Market, which mainly have fish and other odd sea creatures – after eight. At least, I can get an Indian breakfast, as I get back to the car.

I have found what look like a green area with a path, between Mata-Mata and Katok, and give it a try. Unfortunately, it seems like it is a military area of some sort.
I head to the little village of Limau Manis, just as a waypoint. It is just some villas, scattered around the jungle and a gas station. Then I see some flat, green fields
, and turn into Ladang Padi Kg. Wasan, an area with rice fields in all stages.

A single farmer is cultivating a field, to the joy of the cattle egrets. I think, it is a first for me: I see a group of wild rice finches. My parents had them 55 years ago.
I have found, what might be a lake near Panchor Murai. At first, I end up at a graveyard, and a shower passes. Another little gravel road leads to the lake – which is fenced of quite efficiently.

The only remaining planned sight of the day is Brunei River. I crossed it earlier, but return to the bridge, hoping for better light. There is no chance, I can penetrate the jungle along it. That includes the extended sights of the day – and it is nine in the morning!

I follow the Malaysian border home, through Lumapas. I can’t resist a sign for the Taman Arkeologi Kota Batu. It turns out to be an archaeological site; the 14th to 17th century Mausoleum of Sultan Sharif Ali. It have two kilometres of neglected concrete paths, straight through the jungle. None have used them for years, but I appreciate them. I end up in the mangrove on a tiny island of Terindak, with several large but shy monitors.

Besides from the diggings, I see the tail of many birds, and hear even more. Some yellow  flower-ticks are too shy to get their photo made. Here are so many different plants from flowering herbs over bamboo to giant trees.

I more or less follow the coast, towards the north. I sit-out a thundershower at a little diner, drinking coffee. I leave it too early, as the road have huge and deep lakes by now. Well, one more coffee at the next place.

Jalan Pelabuhan Muara is the most northern point of Brunei, a peninsular with its share of beaches. I head out here, just to see the area.
Most is storage for shipping and the marine, but the huge and well groomed Muara leisure park give access to several kilometres of sand beach. The higher parts have its share of driftwood and some plastic, while the golden sand only have shells. Mainly snails, and many types.

It seems like the original vegetation was made up by pines, screw-palms and gum-trees. I see a few silk-plants, but not anything interesting.
As it starts to drizzle gently, I leave the area to the few Indians. They have fancy camps within the park, and enjoy their Sunday here.

I figure, I might as well check a waterfall. Well, after yet another coffee break. No lunch, and I fear my need for calories get covered by the condensed milk in the coffee.
It remains a greyish day, which kind of spoiling the photos, but that’s Asia, dry season or not.

Tasek Lama Waterfall is located in a big natural park, with several trails and roads. I start with the little but nice fall, found across a pond. It is in deep shade and impossible to get a proper photo of.

I then follow a wide trail to a viewing tower, overseeing the canopy. It seems like the monkeys tend to be found along trashcans. I hear some birds and the rattling in the dry leaves from other animals. The, to my great joy, I see a scaly anteater or Sunda pangolin; Manis javanica, but not long enough to get a photo.
The tiny trail is not an official one I think, but it sure leads through some interesting nature. I see plants I can’t place at all. When I feel I have seen what the area can offer, including a lazy monitor, I head on.

I might as well ser the Sultan's Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, which is the biggest in the country. And it is a magnificent building in pristine condition. And the largest gathering of bathroom tiles I ever encountered. I walk around it, passing one fountain after the other.

I’m home at four, and get an Indian coffee, while I update the diary. Then I go window-shopping for a couple of hours. First in the neighbourhood, then all stores in the huge mall.
I am actually looking for a belly-bag for the umbrella and water bottle. In the street, they can be found for €5, but with big Adidas or Nike symbols on. In the mall, belly-bags are €15-20, print or not. Then I find a great looking, no prints for €8. I fail to notice; it is reduced to €1,25, but the cashier tells me. 

At dusk, I find my way home – to the Indian diner, and enjoy yet another great meal. Then home to simplify the bag and finish the diary.
 Day's highlights
  All the better photos of the day

9/6. I'm not that fresh at six, but half an hour later, I am so ready, when the Indian diner opens. The day is set of to explore the other part of the country, devised by Malaysia and the river-mouth.

First, I cross the enormous Temburong Bridge; It is the longest bridge in Southeast Asia, with 30 kilometres. A neat bridge, quite like a Danish. It crosses both the wide river-mouth, but also jungle-covered islands. Then I reach the Brunei-Muara area, just to see it. As always, penetrating the jungle cause a problem, but I find an abandon house and its slightly overgrown driveway.

The first I meet is a family of Black Faced Langur Monkey; Semnopithecus entellus. Then a lot of interesting and some familiar climbing plants. I almost make to the river, but the vegetation make an efficient wall. I head further in, mainly along the large Temburong River. I even manages to get to it a few times. Here are a lot of bird and insects voices. I think most is within the Ulu Temburong National Park, and is sure is virgin rainforest.

At one stop, I almost crash into a concrete ditch on, what I thought was a resting place. I follow the road as far as I can, into the interior. At the end, it is clear further explanation must be done by longboat. I do my best to explore this area and the interesting plants.

I have to return to Bangunan, where I find the partly closed market. And most appreciated, a mug of coffee.

Then I leave the Temburong area by its long bridge. I reach the mainland at noon, and head for the Gadong Wet Market, which mainly have fish. It is a bit late, but here are still a lot of fish in all sizes, same with shrimp to lobsters and squirts. One area have huge amounts of chickens, mostly filleted. A few butchers have meat as well.

I head home for a coffee and diary update. Then I find my last Bruneian sights at Kampong Ayer Stilt Villages, the world’s largest of its kind. I get to walk several kilometres from one end to the other - of this section.
I get way too many photos, generally lacking sun. Some homes are rotting shacks, other lines of alike concrete buildings. Fast and light boats act as taxis, and here are what might be racing canoes, although all on land.

I see the little historical museum; K. A. Cultural & Tourism Gallery with their viewing tower. I’m the first guest to mandatory sign in, in a week.

I head inland through the mangrove, and encounter several large monitors and one, which must be at least half dragon. Back at the car, I enjoy a coffee and update the diaries in the comfort of a moderate air-con.
I gas the car on the way home, as I only use it for the five kilometres to the airport in the morning. Then I reach home at four, and set out on a local stroll, right away. It seems like I have seen prettymuch all by now, and I head home for a traditional Malay dinner at the Indian.

At dusk, I find my way back to the night market, in lack of any other entertainment. The shy night geckos are out by now.
The market is smoky, but also real nice with so much food and cakes. I see it all, photo quite some, but only spend B$1 on cakes. On the way home, I see a record store and the supermarket's huge Danish cookies wall. Then it is time to wash my t-shirt, and get ready for the next country – or island.
 Day's highlights   All the better photos of the day

10/6. I am kind of ready to find the Lapangan Terbang Antarabangsa Airport and return the car. However, I have until ten, and spend the time with a walk along the river. It is not pretty, but the overgrown trees and wild orchids and ferns are.

A last visit at the Indian for coffee – and selfies, then it is time for the short drive to the airport. I return the dirty car, but receive no complaints. Two hours to finish diary and budget, before I fly to Singapore, then Bali.
 All the better photos of the day

It have been a great experience to see a country with that much unspoiled nature – although hard to access. And cheap too. I failed to spend the B$300 / €200 I withdraw, despite I’ve been using cash only, even at the hotel – but not the car, paid from home.
Besides from the nature, the people, both native and immigrants are a treat. Everyone are so friendly and relaxed. Here are quite and clean, while things works fine.
I have driven 832 kilometres, made 1050 photos and spend B$120 on food, stuff, gasoline an other, within Brunei, plus B$144 on the room. I spend B$1133 from home on car and part flight. A total of €890.

Expenses DKK B$
Flight part 2839 538 379
Visa 417 79  
Hotel 760 144 101
Car 2381 450 317
Stuff 58 11 8
Petrol 153 29 20
Food 473 90 63
Parking 11 2 1
Total: 7092 1342 890

Photos   Map & Plan   Diary 1  2  3