Indonesian                                      
          BALI    DIARY  7

 

Then I head down towards the Sidemen village, to find breakfast, and do the trail in their river valley. A few kilometres before, the farmland is amassing, and it call for a long walk along the quite little road. Besides from rice, here are chilli, cardamom, Impatience for the flowers and other species. The sun joins in, and the hundreds of photos can be done again.
Way down, the big Yeh Unda river runs. The area is actively farmed in many ways this morning, by vide smiling farmers. Realising the camera have a limited battery, I head on. And bye a real narrow and worn down bridge, that is.

In the edge of Sideman village, the river is visible to both sides, cutting through the jungle. On the other side of the road, a little temple is active. Dressed in bright colours and attended by many beautiful dressed women, bringing offerings.
My attention is more on the little diner underneath, which serve a great tasting tofu, bean sprouts and something else-breakfast.

Small back allies leads over the creek to the huge farm area out of town. It is yet another great walk, this time on the 20 centimetres walls, surrounding the patches. It is mainly chilli, but all the previous crops from sweet potatoes, spices, beans and rice.

When the path connects with a road, a few tourist shops are found, but it soon become an unspoiled village. The police create a major congestion outside their station, controlling all vehicles. I grab a coffee, and try to plan an alternative route through the little village. It actually works!

Despite I have seen my share of farmland today, I head to the three hour trail to Pura Bukit Tageh, just for the views. There is an entrance fee for the farmland, but only two other visitors: Frenchmen, late 20ties and with walking-sticks, going click-click, lust as loud as their chatting.

It is probably because I’m spoiled by now, but the three kilometre path does not reveal any new sights, except some larger chillies and some vanilla orchids. Well, I do get some photos of the crabs in the creeks and some of the fields and crops.
Back through Sideman, and a cold coffee and some local cakes for dinner in little Tri Eka Buana.

Then I reach the Ari Gembleng waterfall, with way too little water, and too many tourists. A concrete staircase leads to the top, around a hundred meters higher. Several desperate photos later, I head back down. The views to the lowland is great, although dark and slightly misty.

On the way back to the car, I have yet one more chat with a local woman. They don’t mind the lack of common l language.
Then one of the  giant golden orb spider and her tiny lovers catch my eyes.

It starts to rain, and to avoid that, but on the other hand find supper and petrol, I head downhill to the biggest village I can find: Sibetan. Well, it is dry, but all I find is some temples. In tiny Macang, I get a huge mountain of real tasty nasi gorang with a fried egg. Then though the almost dark jungle to my nice home.

Looking at the map for tomorrow reveal some odd fact: The nearest sight is the hotel for tomorrow night. It will form the base for exploring the most eastern part. It actually seems a bit hectic, especially as there are not any roads connecting the dots.
 Day's highlights       All the better photos of the day

23/6. It is a nice drive to the Kusambi area, to see the Puri Agung Karangasem temple in Amlapura. It is a real nice palace, with numerous gardens, ponds, temples, bed- and dining rooms along with a great view over the entire valley.

I end out in the main-street, and see it, while I look for breakfast. At the very end, a little square have some diners, one serving me a vegetarian dish – with shrimps.
The sun is only on in glimpses, and newer when I need it. I get sucked into the vast and clean market, but only see a part of it.

Just south of Amlapura, through some rice terraces, the rough and black beach is found. The outrigger fishing boats are dragged in safety on the shore, and tiny tuna sold under the huge trees. On the other side of the road, the waste Taman Ujung complex is found with its gardens. Much can be seen from outside, and the gardens I am here for, are just square ponds and a few over-pruned bushes on yellowish lawns.

I fail to find the Pura Lingga Yoni; a penis-shaped rock, and don’t feel like asking around, nor that interested anyway. The only thing close, is the almost finish mosque. So far, the gas stations have either been closed or only selling to mopeds.

Not that far away, but quite a dive, the Tirta Gangga water palace is found between the forest covered mountainside, and the rice patches. A massive shower hits the area, just as I arrive, and coffee is the answer.

Despite the amount of tourists, it is a nice place. The tourists are gathered in the central pond area, while the temples and minor ponds surrounding it are vacant. I sit out another shower at the viewing tower, overlooking the rice and pond garden.

In an effort to see the sun on a more permanent basis, I head uphill towards the Tirta Gangga area with Pura Lempuyang, at 1058 meters height.

It is a challenging drive by small roads, meeting heavily loaded trucks. It turns out, most of the mountain side is gravel digs, a few farms and many temples. Many are scattered around the major Pura Penataran Agung Nangka.

I start walking towards the 3024 meter high peak of Mount Agung, but have to seek shelter due to some heavy showers. And then the clouds emerges.
Here are some flowering terrestrial orchids and other plants, but the absent of views and the present of an umbrella make it hard to really appreciate it. It must be pines, but the rest remains a misty mystery.

Another minor road brings me down to some warmer and slightly dryer forests. I really appreciate it haven’t been raining more, when the tiny road crosses a huge and steep river - or actually: The river crosses the road.

I reach the proximity of my new hotel before three, due to the rather superficial exploration of the sights, and pull over in little and humble Bebandem. I give up on hot coffee, and a cold in a plastic bottle, have to do.

My GPS show some trails in the back of the village, and I give it a go. It is a great tour through rice patches and then into the slightly farmed forest. It start to drizzle, and the sky opens, just as I reach the car.

I find my new home for the next two nights, way out in the rice fields. A family home, just as they look around here. I have a long philosophical conversation with my host, then I head down to the nearby village for dinner. The farms along the road grow rice and farm mainly ducks, but only a few pigs. Besides from the usual geckos, I have a Muller's Narrowmouth Frog; Kaloula baleata in my toilet, sitting comfortable in the windowsill's mosses.
 Day's highlights       All the better photos of the day

               And then into the next page; Diary 8.