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 MYANMAR    DIARY 5

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From Diary 4 I now start exploring the western Myanmar, starting in ancient Bagan.
18/12
Breakfast at the hotel, and at nine, I start exploring the waste area around Bagan. Here are at least 2000 pagodas and alike in good condition, and just as many who have suffered from the recent years earthquakes. The entire area seems to have had it prime in the 12-13. century, but many buildings are restored, some by Unesco.

My receptionist suggested a lot of sights last evening, and I figure a walk around the central part would make a great day. Only around 7-8 kilometres each way, no reason to rent a e-bike: Kind of a moped with a battery on, which is popular among the tourists. I have not seen electrified vehicles since Bangladesh. Here, these suicidal and soundless ninjas caused a severe health issue! Not much better with French teenagers behind the steer!

Pretty soon, I'm drawn into the bushes, as a sign show of to Shwe Zi Gone Pagoda. The first I meet is a rather disappointing pagoda, and if that is the standard, it will be a short day. Actually, I find the local petrol station more interesting with its cola bottles of gasoline.  I head a bit further out the dusty sand-road, and now it start to look like something. Two giant Chinthe are guarding the entrance to a waste area, filled with ancient buildings.
A several hundred metres long hallway lads all the way to the inner pagoda. It is so long, I find several interesting buildings along it. Some ancient buildings, some farm yards with pigs and hens and a horse wagon outside.
Back on track, two young monks are studding in the hallway, and they make a great motive.
Here are shops, halls, monks, locals and even a few tourists.

I head further out the sandy trail, trying to reach the river. It leads through a village with bamboo huts and a few dogs. Then the bushes takes over, scattered with ruins of pagodas.
Without warning, the primitive bamboo huts give room for a huge, real modern hotel. In their garden, a stage host evening performers of traditional shows. "No thanks, I won't come back".

A new, kind of nature area, but the amount of invasive plants are scary. Here seems bone dry, and it is a sandy soil, but every thing seems so fresh.
Back on the mainroad, I find a restaurant looking like a fish on land: Funky modern among bamboo huts. Everywhere I look out on the fields and bushland, pagodas seems to pop-up. I head our of one dusty road after the other, and every time I reach one pagoda, there more pops-up behind it.

The plan was to walk straight down to the enclosed area and Old Bagan, but my trail must resemble a bind and mentally disabled ant's, the way I keep zigzagging over through the bushes. By pure luck, I pass one of my way-points; The Pagoda of Htilominio. To judge from the amount of e-bikes, taxis and even busses, not to forget the souvenir shops, this must be big!
And it is. I follow a monk some of the way around, but loos patience, as his selfies take too long. The structure was made in 1218, and it seems to have coped with the earthshakes quite well.

Nearby, two guys want to show me another building. Within is the usual Buddha, but also some nice wall paintings. All from the 12th century. I head further out through the bushes by the trails left by the cows. Despite my efforts, I fail to find any interesting native plants.
The scattered villages and huts offers great motives, and eventually, I make it to the huge Aye Yar Waddy River. Here are plenty of tour boats, but no tourists at all. The locals are doing a bit of fishing an washing, else it is quiet.

As I try to make it back to the enclosure, I pass a local restaurant, who have tea. And while I enjoy that, they bring some food. Vegetarian and tasty.
After a short brake, I find the huge moat and rampant. Within, even more pagodas are found. Most are in red bricks, but I recon they have been covered in plaster and paint or even gold. Each have at least one Buddha within.

The Mahabodi is no exception, here are just more people and shops. I am still hunting a small, golden pagoda, but it seems to be impossible. One the other hand, I can find the perfect little brass tiger and dragon I was unable to find in Bangladesh and Bhutan. Then I see some small bone statues, and among them is a nice Chinthe, which must do it. Afterwards, I figure I have to have two, as they always come in pairs. I manages to find its brother, and a bit lucky, as I have not seen bone-work anywhere else. Must be local!

Next to it is a huge, wooden and gold covered structure. It is the Thiri Zaya Bumi Bagan Golden Palace. I have a breath look from the outside, and I fail to feel the urge to pay 5.000K to get in. 
I rather head out thought the wild again. Surprisingly few wild animals; just some grasshoppers and butterflies.

Then I reach the huge Thathyinyu Pagoda. One of the young shopkeepers follow me around. When I tell her I'm Danish (because she asked), she great me in good Danish. She is a fantastic linguist, and wasted in a little shop, with the local lacquer wares.
She show me the 900 old doors, and point out some of the nearby pagodas with names and sizes. I feel bad not buying anything from her, but she take it with a smile.

The road leads out the other end of the rampant, and a huge, new building in classic style houses the archeologically museum. Interesting, I'm sure, but not today. Next to it is the Gawdapalin Pagoda and then the Bu Stupa, next to the river.
A small kid is banning the bell, and I ask if I can make a photo. He parents agree, and then he turn around and try to hit my camera. Nice try, but I'm too fast!

I walk back through the enclosure, and find the other entrance/exit. Then I head out in the wild again. I find the Mingalar Zedi, which is being restored. Apparently, I'm not welcome, but then they should mend their barbwire fences better (although, I have to admit; it was a bit tricky to get through).
Then the large Manuha Pagoda is next. Within sits a giant Buddha, which seem way to big to fit within the building.

The sun is getting depressingly low, and I try to reach the last sights in the southern part. At the same time, I have to consider how to get the eight kilometres back to the hotel, before dark. It seems like the forest of pagodas will continue in all directions, and I try to capture the last sunset photos.

I try to flag-down some pick-ups on the way back, but fails. Where I was offered around 25 moped rides this morning, none are found here. Within the enclosure, in the dusk, a horse-carriage driver ask where I'm going. He offers me a tour back for 7.000K, and considered the lack of light and the eight hours of walking I have done so far, I agree. 
I might consider a e-bike at 5.000K in the morning, but I have enjoyed the walk in the bushland today.

Back at the hotel, I wash my fingers, and head back to Moe's Vegetarian Restaurant. Considered it is vegetarian, I would have expected something way more interesting, but it have to do. Sea grease and mushrooms, another dish of fried rice.
Back to shower, and a bit reluctant, I have to admit my T-shirt have lost some of its innocence today. Well, 18 days do that to even an Icebreaker in these temperatures, I guess. But I would hate to jinx it...

The rest of the evening is spend on the 332 photos, although I don't bother to tag every pagoda with its name. It get way too close to midnight anyway! Of cause, this leads to a Bagan, day1 slideshow.

19/12 Right after breakfast, I go next door to get a e-bike. I kind of pick-up the trail from yesterday, but have to have a look on the larger pagodas I passed yesterday, without a closer look. I try not to make photos of the smaller ones - but it is hard! A ox-wagon make a great motive, then I reach the huge Ananda Temple. It is like a box with a box with a box and a hidden Buddha everywhere.
When I return to my "Killer Ninja" (completely soundless and 50 km/t), and old bus passes, making almost as good motive as the ox-wagon.

Next up is the pointy Shwe-san-daw Pagoda. It is a bit like a pyramid, and one get to climb it. The first that catches my eye, is the local farmers harvesting on a nearby field. The the entire scenery takes over, and it is astonishing. Thousands of pagodas can be seen from here. It is like a forest of red or white constructions, scattered in the bushland.

As I head further out in the more wild area, the pagodas are mixed with small fields and here are quite some farmers. Some are carrying green branches back to their cows, some are herding the Indian oxen and goats on the dusty roads. That do create some great motives! I think even the cows are smiling here.

My Killer Ninja have lost its breath, and I give it a change to recover, by having dinner at one of the pagodas. I get a great fried noodles with veggies and a cup of tea. Unfortunately, it does not help on the Ninja, and I recon I better get it home before I have to carry it! It should be able to do at least 40 kilometres on a full charge, but the odometer do not work, and I guess the deep sand have its cost.
The last kilometre is only possible due to good thoughts, the sun in the back and no braking.
They can have it charged in eight hours! And they do not have any other, charged ones. It is only a bit passed one, and as I walk back out to the area, and figure I will save 2.000K, and rent another e-bike elsewhere, and thereby save the horse.

I reach another pyramid-like pagoda; the giant Dhammajangyi. To get a good photo, I climb one of the huge brick-gravel mounts around it. Here I discover a bitch's den with small poppies.
Within the pagoda, several hallways lead from one Buddha to another. The wall still have some patterns left of the extensive decorations painters left 900 years ago.
More modern paintings on cotton can be found in the many shops around the pagoda. Also the puppets, hanging in their strings are for sale.

Somehow, I have made it back to the Shwe-san-daw Pagoda, and this time on the farmers side. I see the harvest with sickle and how it is driven away on the ox-wagons.
I follow some narrow and loose sandy trails across the area. Only a few other mopeds and alike are found here. Well, it is like driving on ice and snow - just worse.
I see more oxen and goats, and hidden under big trees, waterholes can be found. It seems like they originates from local springs. Guess the sandy soil leads well.

I reach the large Dhamma Ya Zi Ka Pagoda, which is being re-golden. It is a complex building, where each of the main-side buildings are impressive by them self.
I keep on driving out on the narrow trails, desperately trying to find some interesting plants. Those I really encounter is the Acacias and especially their thorns. Here, my heavy boots would have come in useful, but I don't regret not brining them!

Next to Sulamani Guphaya, a rather large lake seems to have formed quite recently. A few herons are flying over it, while bee-eaters, flycatchers, Willy-wagtails and crows are found around it.
Sulamani Guphaya was build in 1183, and the drawings are still very visible. The sandstone carvings outside it is still impressive,  just like the giant building it self.

I pass some more cows, kicking up dust, and cross the drive way to the square Pya Tha Da. It have a great Buddha in each side, and I head for the top. Again, the view is fantastic. So many ancient buildings in a  - well, honestly; rather large area.
Back out on the sandy plain, I see lakes and real dry savannah-like bushland with mainly Acacias. A few flowering plants can be found, but they look so African and Madagascarian to me. Even the Cucurbitaceaes with their different red fruits.

I loop back to Bu, the golden stupa next to the river. Further up stream, I find a cafe way up on the brink. Lousy "homemade ginger tea" but a great view. The tour boats are still shoulder by shoulder along the shore, but none on the river. It must be off-season.

I head inland again, and find one of the ancient building. It is 1100 years old, and seem to do fine. I guess it is a stupa, made in green bricks. Next to it is the only Indian temple around Bagan, which also is one of the older buildings. Due to the recently earthquake, it is closed, but I get a glimpse of the Indian goods through the windows.

While I botanises in the area, I find a vine I'm not familiar with. Another yellow flower seems a bit familiar, but I can't place it. Besides from that, I have not, despite my best intentions, been able to find anything thing botanical interesting. And I have no photos to prove it!

I work my way all the way down to New Bagan, and follow the sealed road back - to Bu.  I do a walk in the area, and then a cup of proper tea with milk, and as it is four in the afternoon, I like to sit in the sun.
Then, I turn into the sandy roads again, and is rewarded with a fantastic mahogany monastery in a village. A bit hard to capture in the dimmed light, but as I have it to my self, a great experience to visit. The carvings, the size, the weird things gathered around the shrine make it great.

The sun is disappearing behind the pagodas and trees, and I figure I better head home. The few pagodas which must be climbed, are known for their sunset views, but I can't recall which one is the nearest. Or which one it is at all.
Then I see some backpackers on one smaller pagoda, and why not? It it does not say; Climbing propitiated, I guess it is OK? I just have to find the inner staircase.
The view is fantastic, and there is a bit of hippie atmosphere. It add significantly, when a girl start to play guitar and sing gentle. I get some pictures that just look too great!

Back in Nyaung U, I return the e-bike and walk to Moe's Vegetarian and get some hot & sweet vegetables and a fried rice with vegetables. Then I book a tour for Mt. Popa National Park, next door to my hotel. It seems like everybody are selling the same tour anyway. I would have like to have more time there, but on the other hand; botanizing have so fare been real disappointing.

I had planned to see the green, volcanic lake of Twin Daung, but due to the instant planning, I missed it by 200 kilometres up north. And I might run out of time.

Back at the hotel, I start the work. As usual, I sit on the roof where the breakfast restaurant is - along with the Wi-Fy. And a few mosquitoes. The many photos are reduced to Bagan, day 2

20/12 The shared taxi I have booked a seat in, turns out to be a closed minibus with soft seats - and I'm not complaining. I have had enough of the wooden seats and drafty pick-ups. The company, on the other hand, is fare from as warm as the locals. Here, I'm surrounded by Frenchmen and Russians. None reply my cheerful "Good morning" nor my smile. Tough crowd! Must be a living hell to be that arrogant!

After a hour through the usual acacia-land, we do a stop at a "factory" producing sugar from palms and oil from sesame seeds. An ox is walking around in narrow circles, driving a stick around the substance. And of cause, it is only to sell their products.
The road is just at bumpy as the road that lead to Bagan, and it seems like they make them without machines.

Just before we reach column of a extinct volcano and Twin Daung, we do a photo stop. Besides from all the golden glimmer, it reminds me so much of the Greek Metoria monastery. Then we are dropped off at the 777 step staircase, leading to the top. I figure I give the temple a go, before botanising the surrounding national park. After a two hour drive, we have two hours here.
For a first, I see some monkeys. It seems like some are selling food for them, while others are cleaning their shit up from the steps afterwards. The first have easy by collection money, the latter do a much needed job, as we are all barefooted.

Most of the way up, souvenir shops are packed along the steps. Mainly for the pilgrims, it seems. The outlook improves for every pagoda and temple I stop at, but so do the littering. The entire mountain is one big dumpsite! And here are no litter boxes anyway. For me, it does spoil the nature and quite some of the experience.

The Buddha figures are in most places more or less covered in more LED light, than I have in the growing chambers - and that is a lot! Here seems to be no local monks, only the pilgrim monks with their smartphones, taking selfies.
Around Buddha is some statues which must be ordinarily men - although rich ones. It is a bit like a wax museum...

The view from the top is great, but the only access I can find to the nature, is areas covered in trash.
I do a walk around to the different stupas, temples and pagodas. Getting pictures without colourful pilgrims causes a problem, and after a while, I figure I have spend time enough up here.

Back down to the street, I head further on, and a concrete path leads out in the wild. Where the mount is basalt, the surroundings are sandstone and something getting to be sandstone. The plants are green, but again, the invasive seems to dominate.
I get a few good photos of the mountain, find the encasing to a huge landsnail, but fail to find any interesting plants. I do the walk almost around the mountain, but then, is time to return.

A fast walk through the mainstreet reveals nothing new, and the view from uphill is partly covered in white clouds. I get a quick cup of tea at a local shop. I have long time ago discovered the chauffeurs have their places, and they have to share.
The way back is just as eventless, and I spend most of it dozing off.

Back in Nyaung U, I take a chance, and jump off, in the other end of town. A short walk bring me to the market I have read about, and it is big. Then I find the other half - and then the last half! The first part are local grown vegetables. Then some weaved stuff and souvenirs and then the things wrapped in plastic and textiles.
I see it all, and try to capture the best parts with the camera. As usual, the motives are numerous, the light absent. Most are fine with being photoed, but look away every time.

I find some cold noodles and then a cup of warm tea. Back at the hotel, I ask for a connection to Magwe/Minby town, and the helpful receptionist arrange it for me. Nine in the morning; perfect!
Start working on the diary, while I unsuccessful try to upload anything. There is both Wi-Fy and internet, but nothing useful. Never the less, I make some slideshows for later upload. Mt Popa and Nyaung U Market. And as I'm about to leave this area, I finish the Central West.

It is depressingly faster to write and sort, crop and tag the photos, than it is to upload a the few for the diary and the diary itself.
I am kind of finish before ten, and that give a distinct feeling of, I must have forgotten something important.

It is now time to start on Diary 6 and the western part with the coast.