From Diary 1.
As soon as we are out of Thorshavn, it clears up and
that gives some amazing views down through the fjords.
On the way back, we make a stop in Kvivik, which is a small idyllic village, at the bottom of a fjord, and intersected by a large river. Many houses are old, with the foundation stone of boulders and black-painted wooden walls, topped by a green grass roof.
We set course for Kaldbaks, and pass many scattered sheep and geese. The domestic geese walk in as distant areas just as the sheep. In Kalbaks we find the old church from 1835, which on the inside looks like something from a Viking movie, with great looking wooden carvings.
A little too
optimistic, we find our way to the old Thorshavn; Undir Ryggi, but the drizzle
starts to fall, as we leave the car. We will returnů
At five, it is real clear, and our host; Oddfinn guides us on a tour the the highest point on the island, with the Doppler radars. Here is an absolutely awesome view over most of the islands, and I wished I had brought the battery for my camera...
After dinner, we make a walk with our other host; Heidi around the block, which is pass the brand new, round gymnasium and through some real great nature. The evening is spend figuring out what we have seen, and plan some new adventures in the morning. Photos of the day.
10/8. It is glorious sunshine and we embark on a great trip around the northernmost Streymoy and Eysturoy. The first part of the road is familiar, but with the sun on, it is once again a great experience. We follow several deep fjords, and pass high grassy mountains.
The first stop
is at a small stone field, where a lot of small cairns have been built over
time. In some places, the grass completely covers the soft mountains, in
other places; huge bar rocks are exposed.
Then Risin and Kellingin appear: Two large free-standing columns, out in the sea. At the end of the road, we find another cosy village: Tj°rnuvÝk. The special thing here is, they have a huge black sandy beach. I find a couple of snail shells, but do not resent the forgotten swimming suit.
walk through the village reveals some beautiful old boulder houses with
grass roofs and the ancient Savladet; A stone construction where
driftwood was cut up until 1969. The sun continues unabated, and I get to take way too
We pass the large valley, where Funningur lies at the
bottom, out by the water. We pass the highest mountain; SlŠttaratindur
reaching 882 metres, and find Gjˇgv, where we can see Risin and Kellingin
again, this time with sun on.
On the way back, we get through Funningur, where
the big hayloft is underway. The surrounding mountains are characterized by
huge cracks, which
must be from the time, when the volcanoes were
Here we find a forest, and even
more interesting: The sheep are driven together to be sheared. They are
lifted up on a small table, where the head is fixed and they are carefully
cut with hand scissors.
clouds come drifting in over the mountain peaks, and we head home. But it is
NOT the direct road: 10 km as the puffin flies, 67 km as the Honda drives.
11/8. I start the day with a little planning: However, it turns out we have already driven on all the roads our maps show, on the six islands we can drive to. The only thing we have not immediately seen of the planned, are Thorshavn town and Nˇlsoy island, which we have to sail to.
Of course, there are many experiences on the outer
islands, but it will be another time. My co-driver is completely worn out,
and will probably have to sit in the charger all day. The weather is not
very good, so I take it easy as well.
We first see the Skansin fortress, which is located above the harbour. Here are well-kept buildings and a giant star-shaped fortification in grass. Here are both old black powder cannons and some newer ones from World War II.
The sun disappears again, but we continue down around the old port. Here are many small clinker-built boats and all sizes, and some of the dinghies has a centre engine: They have made a hole in the floor, attached a wooden box with a engine in, and the rowing boat now has an engine.
A single flower shop reminds me of Tage Andersen's fantastic universe, while the opposite side of the harbour looks like Nyhavn in Copenhagen. Behind the harbour are the old red parliament buildings; Tinganes with green grass roofs and wooden walls. We walk through them to the old town; Under Ryggi. It is incredibly charming, suitably well maintained, and larger than I expected.
We go a little further out along the harbour, and pass
some large ships. Further out, we cross a river, and find our way down to
the beach. The scenery is amazing, despite we are
a few minutes walk from the centre of town.
Just around the corner, we find the islands largest
which is quite cosy. Their huge supermarket has a wide assortment, unknown
to me, for example coloured pasta things in every conceivable shape and
We make a de-tour around the residential area, just above the harbour, where rows of wooden houses seem disappointing, after Undir Ryggi, but will be uncommonly fascinating in every other capital in the world.
I spends some time helping to lift the 100 kilo glass sheets up on the terrace, lazing a little in the sun, which then disappears. Then I get some control of the day's 200 photos and the diaries. Evening is spend in cosy company.
Where Faroe had next to none Covid-19 victims before we got here, but that change a day or two before. Now, it seems like the quick response have helped, and the infected numbers get low again. But 1000 people have been isolated in 14 days - along with their family. Photo of the day.
Time to crack open Diary 3.