Main Page     All Journeys    Travel Tips

FAROE DIARY  2

Photos   Map & Plan   Diary 1  2  3

From Diary 1.
9/8.
While I eat my breakfast, the sun is shining, then the fog closes the view to the other side of the street, only to be replaced with a drizzle. When I'm finish eating, the sun is back. We plan half a day excursions, starting half way up on Streymoy. Here the little village of Vestmanna should offer some great nature and bird cliffs.

As soon as we are out of Thorshavn, it clears up and that gives some amazing views down through the fjords.
We pass Kvivik, which lies picturesque at the bottom of a fjord, but we continues. Vestmanna is safely located at the bottom of its own deep fjord, and we rounds the harbour and the old town. Then we continue out as far as we can get, but do not find the bird cliffs. On the other hand, I find the common butterwort;
Pinguicula vulgaris; a carnivorous plant and many other beautiful flowers.

On the way back, we make a stop in Kvivik, which is a small idyllic village, at the bottom of a fjord, and intersected by a large river. Many houses are old, with the foundation stone of boulders and black-painted wooden walls, topped by a green grass roof.

We set course for Kaldbaks, and pass many scattered sheep and geese. The domestic geese walk in as distant areas just as the sheep. In Kalbaks we find the old church from 1835, which on the inside looks like something from a Viking movie, with great looking wooden carvings.

A little too optimistic, we find our way to the old Thorshavn; Undir Ryggi, but the drizzle starts to fall, as we leave the car. We will returnů
Home for lunch and Formula 1 race, followed by general cosiness with home-baked cinnamon snails and pancakes with ice crŔme.

At five, it is real clear, and our host; Oddfinn guides us on a tour the the highest point on the island, with the Doppler radars. Here is an absolutely awesome view over most of the islands, and I wished I had brought the battery for my camera...

After dinner, we make a walk with our other host; Heidi around the block, which is pass the brand new, round gymnasium and through some real great nature. The evening is spend figuring out what we have seen, and plan some new adventures in the morning. Photos of the day.

10/8. It is glorious sunshine and we embark on a great trip around the northernmost Streymoy and Eysturoy. The first part of the road is familiar, but with the sun on, it is once again a great experience. We follow several deep fjords, and pass high grassy mountains.

The first stop is at a small stone field, where a lot of small cairns have been built over time. In some places, the grass completely covers the soft mountains, in other places; huge bar rocks are exposed.
Then we reach the small cosy village Haldˇrsvik, which has a whimsical octagonal church. After a short walk around, we head on past Ei­i - which is located over on another island. The church is located on the narrowest part of the peninsula, in a saddle.

Then Risin and Kellingin appear: Two large free-standing columns, out in the sea. At the end of the road, we find another cosy village: Tj°rnuvÝk. The special thing here is, they have a huge black sandy beach. I find a couple of snail shells, but do not resent the forgotten swimming suit.

A walk through the village reveals some beautiful old boulder houses with grass roofs and the ancient Savladet; A stone construction where driftwood was cut up until 1969. The sun continues unabated, and I get to take way too many photos.
We turn the car around, and find our way to Eysturoy, then we turn north again, to get to Ei­i.

We pass the large valley, where Funningur lies at the bottom, out by the water. We pass the highest mountain; SlŠttaratindur reaching 882 metres, and find Gjˇgv,  where we can see Risin and Kellingin again, this time with sun on.
Gjˇgv has a fantastic natural harbour, although it is incredibly narrow and difficult to get to. We find a Belgian waffle and a cup of tea / coffee, before we trudge around and enjoy the area. A stream finds its way down through the village, and the banks are still full of colourful flowers.

 

On the way back, we get through Funningur, where the big hayloft is underway. The surrounding mountains are characterized by huge cracks, which must be from the time, when the volcanoes were active.
We reach ElduvÝk, which has a pebble beach. Down by the harbour, some old stone houses for the small clinker-built boats are found. The water is crystal clear, and here are several large algae. We enjoy the sun, but then drive down to the southern tip - and up again on the other side.

Here we find a forest, and even more interesting: The sheep are driven together to be sheared. They are lifted up on a small table, where the head is fixed and they are carefully cut with hand scissors.
We round the forest where 5-6 streams cross the slope with the large and very varied trees. Obviously another trial planting.

The clouds come drifting in over the mountain peaks, and we head home. But it is NOT the direct road: 10 km as the puffin flies, 67 km as the Honda drives.
We arrive home at three o'clock, and the clouds close in on the land. I struggle through 350 photos while Michael watches a football match. Despite is was another "half day", we have seen so much beautiful Faroe, and my list of sights is shrinking fast.
It could be way worse, but we been lucky with the weather so far - although I feel a bit blue, as Denmark experience 30C all week.
The evening is covered in fog, but none can guess of tomorrow - and know for sure.  Photos of the day.

11/8. I start the day with a little planning: However, it turns out we have already driven on all the roads our maps show, on the six islands we can drive to. The only thing we have not immediately seen of the planned, are Thorshavn town and Nˇlsoy island, which we have to sail to.

Of course, there are many experiences on the outer islands, but it will be another time. My co-driver is completely worn out, and will probably have to sit in the charger all day. The weather is not very good, so I take it easy as well.
I get some hours, where I can correct mistakes in the diaries, and find some highlights among the pictures. At 10 o'clock, it clears up a bit, and I lure Michael down into Thorshavn town, where he is a good guide.

We first see the Skansin fortress, which is located above the harbour. Here are well-kept buildings and a giant star-shaped fortification in grass. Here are both old black powder cannons and some newer ones from World War II.

The sun disappears again, but we continue down around the old port. Here are many small clinker-built boats and all sizes, and some of the dinghies has a centre engine: They have made a hole in the floor, attached a wooden box with a engine in, and the rowing boat now has an engine.

A single flower shop reminds me of Tage Andersen's fantastic universe, while the opposite side of the harbour looks like Nyhavn in Copenhagen. Behind the harbour are the old red parliament buildings; Tinganes with green grass roofs and wooden walls. We walk through them to the old town; Under Ryggi. It is incredibly charming, suitably well maintained, and larger than I expected.

We go a little further out along the harbour, and pass some large ships. Further out, we cross a river, and find our way down to the beach. The scenery is amazing, despite we are only a few minutes walk from the centre of town.
Far above the city, Kongaminni­ towers with Christian the 9th's monogram, erected in 1874 to commemorate the king's visit. It is surrounded by a green field with sheep on. The view of the city is fantastic - through the light haze.

Just around the corner, we find the islands largest (only!) mall, which is quite cosy. Their huge supermarket has a wide assortment, unknown to me, for example coloured pasta things in every conceivable shape and size.
Even their parking lot is an experience: It is bordered by an ancient, lichen-overgrowing stone wall and large trees. We stock in for lunch at the burger bar, and drive home through provocatively clear sunshine.

We make a de-tour around the residential area, just above the harbour, where rows of wooden houses seem disappointing, after Undir Ryggi, but will be uncommonly fascinating in every other capital in the world.

I spends some time helping to lift the 100 kilo glass sheets up on the terrace, lazing a little in the sun, which then disappears. Then I get some control of the day's 200 photos and the diaries. Evening is spend in cosy company.

Where Faroe had next to none Covid-19 victims before we got here, but that change a day or two before. Now, it seems like the quick response have helped, and the infected numbers get low again. But 1000 people have been isolated in 14 days - along with their family. Photo of the day.

Time to crack open Diary 3.

Photos   Map & Plan   Diary 1  2  3